HI -- Just have a wood belly band board that is a thickness that won't matter between . Adding yet another tile feature is not going to look any better .Match to the same size as window frame , you have lots of height for that size and it will balance better . I have never been a fan of bead board or wainscoting . Used too much and the wrong way by most .

If I am reading your post properly?

You can simply add a layer of cement board to the walls below t&G this will furr' out the subway and give you a proper tiling substrate. follow CBU install guidelines.. make sense?

Youll wanna leave an expansion joint of silicone between lumber and tile @ charrail junction for expansion/contraction...

Lee lee, so do you mean add a piece of timber between the two the same width as the window? Kind of like the old dado rails/picture rails? Is that what you meant? Thanks

Tundra Finish, yes it does make sense, our walls are double brick, then cemented/plastered over the brick, but I've also discovered the previous owners must have lined the walls with the waterproof gib before adding the panelling, so technically shouldn't need to add more gib, and I would rather not if I don't have to, but will see what the tiler thinks. I've got the same problem at the bottom, the tiles are thicker than the skirting as they are tapered, still deciding whether to keep the skirting board or tile straight from the floor (the floor will be tiled as well). I'm kind of bending towards keeping the skirtings as it will be easier than trying to match the different wall thickness (behind the skirting is shallower than the current finished wall), and I could just trim a little off the top of the skirting to butt up to the tile?

Maybe that would work. I just think if one layer needs to be thicker it's the one on the bottom. Not sure exactly how you'd accomplish that. Maybe add another layer of something (backer board?). My main "fix" was to separate the tongue and groove from the tile. See picture above where wall meets tile.

Mozzie73,
You dont have a problem, you just dont have the solution yet!....
Theres many ways it can be done. Talk to your tiler / contractor if they are pros they will quickly see multiple solutions...... unless you are trying to DIY?????

In regards to brick walls there are lightweight options such as 1/4 wedi board or similar that could be thinset bonded to your walls with a little prep work. Theres other ways to go as well..

Base? Simply pull your base off , and either use a tile cove base or tile material you choose to floor transition.... or customize your wood base and re-install w/ tile ( another story). all very doable and you have options....

good luck..

Need a better picture of the whole wall.

Thanks everyone for your comments, after discussions with the builder today, we will do a timber strip between the T&G and tile, the part that covers the tile will obviously need to be rebated further to allow for the difference in thicknesses, will post a picture when completed, bathroom getting gutted tomorrow :)

Oh and we will take the skirting off and leave off, mainly because I need the skirting for some other rooms that the previous owners ruined, so will follow something along the lines of Tundra... Thanks

Good luck.... sounds smart......

Hello There:

Your home looks like it has some good bones and period features. No one has yet to comment on marrying subway tiles on lower walls, with tongue and groove cladding on upper walls of your space.

I am thinking this finished look could well end up looking quite "busy." Lots of competing "grid" lines, etc. If I understand correctly, this space is actually, or ultimately will be, a bathroom. Perhaps you do not want a wood product on lower sections of the walls because of potential water damage, etc. That said, there are excellent paints, sealants, etc., that you could apply that would guard against this. If painting, using Zinsser Sealant as base coat is a good starting point.

As another alternative, you could use much larger tiles on lower portion of walls, oriented vertically. I am thinking 12" x 18" (or 24") tiles. Of course, these are more challenging to install, given their greater size and therefore, weight. Despite this, if you have an excellent tiler, it can definitely be done.

For example, you could choose glass tiles, either clear or coloured. Going even further, you could install glass panels to lower sections of walls. You could "back paint" them or not. You could apply paint or even wallpaper (with a wonderful design and colour way you'd likely never tire of) prior to installing glass panels. The wallpaper idea, especially if design is more curvilinear in nature, would not be competing with verticality of tongue and groove, but rather, would complement and enhance it. If beautiful wallpaper (or heck, even a mural or timeless design could be painted directly on walls) is applied and then covered with clear glass panels, the overall effect would be akin to that of an art installation.

Naturally, glass panels would be considerably more expensive, but would provide a more seamless, less cluttered appearance. Should you like this idea, simply check what thickness of glass would work best, both for aesthetic and safety purposes. If you have a bit of time to shop around for best supplier and price point, you could well suss out a source that will not "break the bank!" :)

To affix glass panels to the walls you want to use hardware that is anodized. As an idea, you could use anodized lug nuts that are usually used for automotive purposes. I just looked up "anodized lug nuts" and see they are available in wide array of wonderful, decorative colours. This hardware would be visibly holding your glass panels in permanent place, but they would be a small attractive design element, ultimately adding another layer of visual interest to your space.

I believe glass panels would tie in very well with your great, textured/mottled glass panelled door and transom. Too, I think the overall look would achieve a really attractive marriage as various materials, along with period architectural features would "read:" old, new, and timeless.

I realize this design concept may seem counterintuitive to you and/or others, but I can "see it" and think it could be just fab!

All The Best,

Sharon Black, interior designer and contractor