Thank you everyone for your ideas. We are about to paint the walls an off white - double merino, and thought we might paint the doors and pelmets the same and now after reading your comments I think we will leave the timber beams and paint the ceiling between them the same as the walls, and will consider the bar supports too. What do people think about painting ceilings, doors and walls the same colour?

The first thing I would do is switch your light fixture to track lighting. That way you can focus the light onto that wall much like what is done in an art gallery. I also think that may stop the reflection you are getting. I think putting cabinets on the long wall will really close in the space. I would make your red wall your gallery wall. I'd frame everything in white so they "pop" off the wall. The problem with the other wall being the gallery wall is that it's just to narrow. You can't really stand back far enough to see the art.

These chairs are easy to recover and the range of fabric available today gives you plenty of choice. I say go for it. If you don't feel up to it yourself get an upholsterer, but plenty of YouTube tutorials about.

Once you go white (which I think is a great idea) you might find that the existing handles look good. If you want to change them I would suggest handles that are consistent with the period of the house/kitchen. And, I would keep them simple based on the design of the cabinetry. :-)