You can put the TV over the fireplace, not the best situation but the way the room lays out it is the only logical place to put it. If you could you should add one additional layer on your mantel that could extend it out another 4" to deflect the radiant coming from the fireplace. I would also mount it on a slimline mounting bracket and have the bottom of the TV no further than 4" above the mantle. Ideally you want the TV to be in as straight a line as possible with your eyes. You don't want to look up too high at the TV, it's like being at a sports bar. Also if you can snake up the power and the HDMI from the cable there is a box they make that has both in one so it makes for a very clean installation.

Ok! Red and white then. This is kind of a neat room, but you do have a lot of furniture. So, my first thought is to move the furniture around a little bit to give you more functional space. The desk is really neat, but it is meant for a corner. Since you have the door to outside, one of your typical bedroom corners is missing. Let's consider if we can take the return that makes the desk an L off for now and put it in the garage / storage. It just doesn't work well for you here. It also seems that you need more storage by the desk. I would like to see the tall bookcase in the corner by the dresser where you have the short bookcase - that gives some height to that part of the room instead of having all the tall visual things in one place. Then, is there room to turn your bed onto the end wall and put both nightstands on either side? You may even be able to center the desk under the window so you can still look out, and put the short bookcase just to the right of the desk. If when you turn the bed, the desk doesn't fit where it is, then put it on the entry wall in front of the window left of the sliding door, and put the small bookcase at the left end facing the door when you walk in. You can swag back the curtains here to the left - and I have new curtain recommendations coming. Let someone else use the little green tiffany lamp for now - great in a bathroom! Center your dresser and mirror on the wall it is on now and add even rows of 3m command hooks (i like the silver ones) running up the wall on either side of the mirror and put your hats on them. Now for decor ideas. We need to find you some curtains to tell your color story - look at these - http://www.pier1.com/Flocked-Leaves-Panel/2689183,default,pd.html?cgid=curtains#start=4 they bring in your red and white, and also tie in your blue chair with the pretty birds without going all too patriotic in style. Use these on both sides of your window, two pulled together to the left on your door. Then, add an off- white comforter cover - called a duvet - this can be taken off and washed / bleached so it will be fine that it is white and you'll put your existing red spread folded in thirds at the bottom of the bed. With the duvet, you will get shams for your main pillows. Now you will need a bedskirt, but if you use a print here, it will add a lot of interest and we can make accent pillows that match to make your bed look very chic. I went looking for a red fabric with a small off-white print (you might find a red and white striped bedskirt with the red of your bedcover throw) , or buy some fabric and take it to the local tailor and they will make you one - here is a good fabric example. The red needs to be dark like your bedcover, but have a little white. Tell them you want a tailored skirt, not a ruffle - 2 yards would be enough to make a bedskirt and a pillow sham or decorative pillow bolster for your bed. Here is something that could help make the room look decorated - it matches something else we are getting to - http://beautifulfabric.com/asccustompages/products.asp?fav=0&fpage=1&page=1&categoryID=17&productID=6061&pStart=200&recNum=247 If you want to paint walls, you can, but I have some stencil ideas instead that will work nicely with the creamy white walls you have now. I think I would get a stencil to match the little print in the fabric - and stencil my closet doors with a reverse pattern -the off- white underneath and red on top. You can test sw rookwood red - match it to your red bedspread. You can even use craft paint so you can mix it to match the right red color - http://www.royaldesignstudio.com/collections/moroccan-stencils/products/casablanca-trellis-moroccan-stencil You can also do the wall where the head of the bed is changing to. Definitely don't do the whole room - it will feel too busy. Take the cork/ pin board and mask it off, then paint that frame red. Put it over the little bookcase. I'm going to suggest you and your mom go shopping for a headboard for your bed - sometimes craigslist has some terrific finds. Something solid against the stencil wall would be best instead of another open pattern. Paint the headboard the same dark red you use for your stencils. Here's rookwood http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW2802-rookwood-red/ Your dark furniture will look beautiful with this deep red and white. Put the art by your pinboard on the wall between the entry door and the window - it is too small for a big wall. Buy one large piece of art for over the bed - ask for it for a birthday or christmas - here is something like what I mean - this has your colors in it and was made by a fine artist - http://www.art.com/products/p12280045-sa-i1657569/joaquin-sorolla-y-bast-clotilde-and-elena-on-the-rocks-javea.htm?sorig=cat&sorigid=0&dimvals=5004429&ui=b5ff7eb13dc247bcb1178e6f636a3f96&ssk=joaqu%u00edn+sorolla+y+bastida You can get this in wrapped canvas that doesn't need a frame - just get a big enough size / around 2/3 as wide as your bed - or buy something that is just line art - a black sketch on white matted in the same deep red and framed in white. It might take you a while to get everything the way you like it. Be patient and work on this with your parents help and advice. Hope this gives you some visual things that could carry out your wish for your room.

You have "wear through" which is when the finish is pierced and the wood is exposed to the elements. The dark areas are where dirk/water/mud have stained the floor. It is possible to get this out... but probably not all the way. A floor that has wear through needs to be sanded right down, stained (if you wish) and then refinished. Patching can occur...but it is almost always a waste of time because the "look" can be very different from the original sitting right next to it. I don't recommend it for your situation. The second photo shows the deep scratching. Ideally, you would have had your floors looked after BEFORE wear-through occurs. There are some "regular" scratches to the Left in photo 2. You can see it is visible...but no discolouration....THAT is where you draw the line. The darker "wear through" to the Right in photo 2 = too late = full sand and refinish. If you catch it BEFORE wear-through, you can do a "buff and coat". This is a light sanding with a few coats of high end finish over top. The buff and coat is roughly half the price (in Canada at least) as a full sand/refinish. For this reason it is important to catch the floors before you get to this level of scratching.. That being said, you now get to pick some stains (test patch, test patch, test patch). The first photo shows two different woods...you could ask to see if the lighter would could be matched to the darker wood (lots of testing to achieve this). It won't be pefect...but then again you wouldn't have used reclaimed building materials if you were after "perfect". The match can lessen the colour variation to a more manageable (design wise) level. As for "good for dogs" - natural colour of wood = best colour for scratches. A lower gloss (like a satin) can help. You can ask for the "best" finish with scratch resistance that comes in a can. You will pay a premium for it...but it could/should save you thousands of dollars over the long run. A highend, scratch resistant finish means you can get away with the cheaper buff and coats (every 7-12 years...or so) and be able to retain the original (expensive) finish for the full 25 years. The other thing to note: dogs claws require trimming 2-4 PER MONTH when working with hardwoods. This is what the hardwood flooring refers to as "routine" trimming. Some of my clients thought "2-3 PER YEAR" was "routine". I laughed. You have heavy, high energy, powerful dogs. A single lab can cause some damage over time. Two labs can do a number on a floor. Three labs and you have a very short lived hardwood finish. You have 7. I would find the most expensive, scratch resistant finish available in Australia. I would have the maximum amount of finished put your floors (you will pay extra) it and I would budget for a "buff and coat" every 5-7 years.

I would clean up first. Especially the stuff growing in the paving. Then get gardening with pot plants and start experimenting with different plants and the positions. See what you like and if you can keep it alive! Our house has the sun setting over the back fence and we've done a few inexpensive things to reduce that issue (most expensive were outdoor blinds around the verandah) but for most of the year we just don't want to be out there. It is hard work to keep the plants going in summer, there is a lot of sand due to the difficulty in keeping lawn alive and it is just bloody hot. So, that's why I'm saying clean up, start gardening small and see how you go before committing to structures that might not address the real issues you have with the yard. Just my 2 cents! :)