Hi Luke, thanks for your reply. Yes, there is existing plumbing but we need to create a gradient somehow on the wood floor. Concrete floors can be ground to create the gradient but need to come up with some other solution with the wood.

You should remove the cork first as tiles need a flat and even surface to go on. Definitely remove the cork.

currently doing a renovation of farmhouse wanting some advice on colour scheme. floor tiles are grey leppato reefstone. Newly added t&g paneling with a cedar door and black iron door handles. What shade walls should I Do? I am going to have a mounted stag head next to the door on the right so was considering something earthy grey/beige/grey on top part of walls? with a contrasting colour on the t&g. open to suggestions. the entranceway flows through to open plan living. kitchen cabinetry in antique white with the same grey leppato tiling. then of course it's getting the right shade of carpet. I know what I want it's just getting there. Thanks in advance for suggestions .

Hi guys. Any advice GREATLY appreciated.I have a 2 storey 1970s townhouse. It's one of two, attached by a concrete block wall. It had a roof replaced (cathedral ceiling) and since then cracks (gaps?) have appeared between the ceiling and wall seam. Just here and there, not everywhere. Also a gap between the concrete block and wooden trim of the drywall down the length of the house in one corner. This has led me to notice that the upper floor/lower ceiling in that corner isn't straight! You can see in the photos that the cinder block is higher in the corner! All the window frames, doors and the rest of the walls/ floor in the two rooms are level. I have looked under the house at the foundation and can't see anything scary. Could the house have been built like this? Or has something occurred? I can't see any cracks in the cinder block wall. And any advice regarding the gaps that have appeared?