Thank you everyone for your comments. We live outside Christchurch, and the house was badly damaged in the quakes here. The post-quake rebuild process could safely be described as slightly chaotic, and the house company I am using are located some distance away (like on the North Island), which is why discussion with the architect has been - em - less than optimal. The architect threw something at me to get me out of my comfort zone I think and this is what's freaking me out! I think the windows on the east side are to come (no reason for them not being there), and probably a skylight in the kitchen roof. The section of land is narrow and steep, (this is a historic port town and with access from the south (where the view is); there is no parking other than on the street (south). Patricia - the laundry doesn't sit right with me either! Looks a bit like it's been glued on the side of the hosue. And it is too small as it is to store coats, shoes etc. This is the access to the back garden - thus the door (also means muddy boots can be dumped when we come in!). Entering a house through a living room is very common over here, especially where space is at a premium (small section, small house footprint).

Hello people, Question time again. Im trying to match indoor and outdoor colour to my project around the living and pool area. I have 10 Meters of space to work with which includes 5 meters width of the living area. If i break the colours indoor v's outdoor it will make my area look smaller, more confined ? If i use polished concrete inside and try and match the colour outside, the surface will get hot. Soooooo... I have added some photos here. I went and purchased a box of man made granit tiles 80x 80cm. Keeping the shiny for the inside and tried "honing" the surface of the other tile as a test so i could use it outside and keeping the surface of the 'honed tile" slightly textured to ensure not so slippery and matching the inside colour. After coating this honed tile it has gone slightly darker which is ok. What im wanting to know, is this ok to do ? will there be any down the line effects of the tile if its outside in a wet area ? it maybe only wet for 3 months of the year for a few hours at a time. My challenge here is price V's product / Styling / practacality -Timber is too expensive for outdoor application / requires maintenance -Marble expensive -Natural stone expensive also if anyone has any solutions / kmowledge / advice it its ok to hone an indoor tile and add a protective coating for the outside. this would be much appreciated. Thanks Houzz'ers! Justin :)

Well, for lack of a better idea, since you find it a drafty little space. I'm assuming the draft comes in on the right? Most of the necessities in the area are located of the left side; i.e. vent, thermostat, light switch etc. What I would do I think is caulk up the drafty spots, maybe even add sized poster board wrapped in batting I covered in a gorgeous fuscia with diagonal grosgrain ribbons every which way covered with a heavy velvet to be attached to the area above & below the window. (Of course remove the drapes that are hanging in there). This for the purpose of using it as a pin-it board for notes. Attach a table height board covered in felt to carry across the full width of the little room. Leaving just enough space for a comfortable little antique desk chair. Paint the back wall a bright cobalt blue, paint the ceiling a silvery pearlescent white. Find a way to attach a clip-on task lamp. And stretch a heavy duty enough wire across the top of the opening and complete it with a heavy doubled velvet drape with a drooping valance. Place a swag with fringe & jewels on it to be closed when not in use. Voila intrigue is yours!

When installing over top of old ceramic/porcelain be aware that you will most likely have to "sink" the old tiles in cement to do this. That means grinding down the tiles a little (rough up the surface) then the self leveling cement is poured and allowed to dry. The new floor is then laid over top. Vinyl is notorious for requiring EXTREMELY flat surface. A ceramic tile rarely has this requirement (grout lines and "high spots" around tile corners give problems). A glue in place tile is also going to have the same problems and the same solution = sinking the tiles in cement. This adds extra costs to the floor. A rigid floor like a cork floating floor can handle a bit more floor deflection than vinyl or laminate planks. If labour in your area is relatively cheap...you could probably have the tile removed and the sanding of the mortar done for the same price as coating in concrete. You will also have the luxury of being able to lay any floor you want once it is done AND you don't have to worry about increasing the floor height. It is possible to sink the ceramic in cement...but is it the most cost effective option? Maybe not.