What a fantastic architecture. When you do the brick, if you stain it with masonry /concrete stain you won't have the same issues of maintenance as with paint. They will spray it evenly - through you will have to select a deeper color - either taupe (brown-gray) or a straight charcoal. Love your windows and the classic angled railing. I think a dark gray on the siding will make the orange brick jump even more. What bothers me is the white (railing, fascia, eaves) juxtaposed with the earth toned stuff. So I would recommend camel tones - for the siding - something like http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6108-latte/ and the hopsack next darker tone for the garage door. Use the lighter tan for trim that is now white - http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6107-nomadic-desert/ Use the darkest tone if you are painting concrete steps. If you think you will stain your brick charcoal, then the white eaves and trim are probably right, and you may not want to paint it tan now and then go back. If your brick were charcoal, then I would block out the rest in grays and blue grays - leave the white eaves, but take the railing and posts charcoal too. A blue gray door - like sw smoky blue.

I would suggest you take out the cabinet that is to the right of the stove and use it elsewhere in the house -- perhaps in the bathroom or dining room with a hutch above it. Then, I would suggest you have someone install a lazy susan cabinet in the corner between the sink counter and the stove, meaning you would move the stove down a bit and have a small cabinet/counter top to the right of the stove. I would suggest you have the cabinets refinished in white and then paint the walls a pastel you like. If you would prefer white walls, then add white-painted crown molding and paint the ceiling a light neutral blue, such as Sherwin Williams Niagara Falls Blue. Then, I would suggest you choose a favorite accent color and use this sparingly in accessories like towels, pot holders, small vases or floral arrangements, and a valence above the triple windows. For a genuine 1940s look, you might have white ceramic square tiles with a rectangular red border installed as a back splash behind and above the stove. If you are replacing counter tops, I would suggest a light color such as white with a beige or light grey vein or striation for some sort of pattern. You might be able to find the same color and design in floor tile OR opt for a wood floor as another poster suggested.

I really don't see an issue with the rooflines. Looks like the angles are fairly similar and the clean lines of both structures should be easy to coordinate, especially in your open, rural setting. Since you've found a stunning deal, I would say, go for it! I definitely would want to find an architect ASAP and by all means, before you pour the slab, make sure you have a plan to coordinate.

Hi, you have a number of questions I can answer a couple. As a starter, how do I find out 1) how much top soil I will need The amount of soil you need you can work out by multiplying the size of the area you are going to turf by the depth you want the soil. I think they put on around 2-3" of top soil on our lawn and levelled it off. The amount you need will also be determined by how bumpy your lawn is as they will need to remove lumps and bumps and then add the topsoil and level. I would advise getting a no obligation quote from a reputable landscaper. Ask them how much soil it involves. You can then make a decision whether you do it yourself or get in a pro. 2)Can I level out the top soil prior to building a deck - Or should I wait until the deck is finished before landscaping You should definitely build your deck prior to landscaping, it will also give you a better idea of what you are left to work with regards to lawn and garden beds. 3) for this amount of land should I be using the services of a bob cat person to level out the top soil I recently had my rear lawn re laid. It was a job we could have done ourselves as it is only tiny. It meant removing at least 4" off the top and then replacing with garden top soil (weed free) which was then levelled and packed down prior to ready lawn being laid over the top. The outcome is amazing but I don't have a photo yet. Word of warning, when working with garden soils, always wear a mask as my husband contracted Legionnaires disease from shoveling two trailer loads of soil into a retaining wall a few months ago. It is a very serious disease he was hospitalised for 8 days. They do have warnings on bags of compost etc at garden centres but never mentioned it to us at the landscape place where we purchased the soil. I noticed that our landscapers didn't take any precautions either. 4) do I need to destroy the lawn that is currently there before I add top soil on the lawn...Or can I buy soil and spread it on the existing lawn. You need to have the old lawn killed off as there will be weeds among it. I am anti sprays so we dug around 4" off the top of the garden, removing the weeds and roots, but there has been a few weeds coming up through the new grass now it is established so I would say for your large space to have it killed off in some way, then you need to remove the top layer and make it reasonably level for your top soil. With regards to ideas for your garden, you want to think about curb appeal, lead the eye up towards your entrance way. I know your entrance is off to the left so let your border follow the drive way on either side and up to your entrance. Make your entrance stand out with symmetrical pots I can't really advise a specific plant as I don't know your style. These are simply ideas to inspire you. You could fill the pots with white flowers that you change with the seasons or topiary to add some height. With regards to your fence boundary, it would be lovely to have some hedging although it can be high maintenance with trimming twice yearly. I am really into Ficus Tuffi (pleached) which is like topiary grown into each other forming a hedge. I am not familiar with what you can grow where you live but here are some border ideas. There are actually so many ideas, I could be looking for images all day for you, I suggest that with the great space you will have that you create a few garden rooms and focal points that lead the eye. I have added a link to my Landscaping ideas on Houzz. I am pretty sure they will inspire you. And although I am not a professional landscaper, I do have a passion for all design and when it comes to landscaping your garden you need to think about the style your house is inside. Also layering of planting is very important for example I have used box hedging then behind that a layer of star Jasmine and behind that an espaliered citrus tree which is against my studio. I don't have any photos yet but will try to get some up later this week. It is a brand new garden so you can see how a newly established garden looks like, not a five year old plus one as most of my saved images are. http://www.houzz.co.nz/ideabooks/63878109/thumbs/landscaping Layering.... Also think about height, plant some really lovely trees in areas you may want shade and something beautiful to look at. I love Magnolia Little Gem but there are some beautiful trees, I would use a mix of deciduous and evergreen so you get those beautiful autumn colours too. With regards to the front of your house you have some soil area in front of your fence. I would do some planting in front to soften the fence. Are you going to paint the fence? Plants will depend on the style you are looking to achieve in your garden, those above are more contemporary but you could go cottage but seems I cannot add any more photos so I suggest you look at my landscape Idea book (link above). Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you more :)