An all weather outdoor shower is easily done by locating the mixing valve inside the house and use a coupling shaft to locate the handle on the outside. You must use a standard tub type lower faucet (with the pull up to activate the shower) to allow the system to drain out when the shower is done. You also have to make sure everything slopes in direction of the water flow. We live in Bancroft Ontario so winters are well below freezing and we have been showering outside for 3 winters. Only issue we have is the shower head will freeze so we typically remove it after a shower or shower without it on when really cold. The system has worked well and it helps that nothing special needs to be done by anyone. no inside valves to close etc. Just turn off tap and everything drains.

Hello people, Question time again. Im trying to match indoor and outdoor colour to my project around the living and pool area. I have 10 Meters of space to work with which includes 5 meters width of the living area. If i break the colours indoor v's outdoor it will make my area look smaller, more confined ? If i use polished concrete inside and try and match the colour outside, the surface will get hot. Soooooo... I have added some photos here. I went and purchased a box of man made granit tiles 80x 80cm. Keeping the shiny for the inside and tried "honing" the surface of the other tile as a test so i could use it outside and keeping the surface of the 'honed tile" slightly textured to ensure not so slippery and matching the inside colour. After coating this honed tile it has gone slightly darker which is ok. What im wanting to know, is this ok to do ? will there be any down the line effects of the tile if its outside in a wet area ? it maybe only wet for 3 months of the year for a few hours at a time. My challenge here is price V's product / Styling / practacality -Timber is too expensive for outdoor application / requires maintenance -Marble expensive -Natural stone expensive also if anyone has any solutions / kmowledge / advice it its ok to hone an indoor tile and add a protective coating for the outside. this would be much appreciated. Thanks Houzz'ers! Justin :)

This is why it's always good to have a pro to hold your hand for at least some of the way, (carefully chosen though, check out his/her finished projects, the more varied the styles, the better she/he will be able to understand and adapt to your desires), they can provide the invaluable visual supports too. When it's your own house it's notoriously difficult to see the possibilities, you have it under your eyes the whole time and the defaults shout at you and prevent you being able to see it objectively and envisage the possibilities. you're emotionally involved and emotions always have the upper hand on the brain, so you just keep turning round in circles. Something akin as to why a psy must never attempt therapy on a member of his own family, if you follow me :D As for the façade color, are you sure it needs changing that much ? Once those thick white frames have gone and the new windows nestling more discreetly, correctly positioned and re-proportioned, the aspect will change drastically and be far more streamlined and modern. (the devil is in the detail) I'd also strongly suggest that the wood facing just breaks off around the windows, no framing or finishings. Same thing for all the windows, the small ones too. Entrance : Same as for the windows, that outer frame shouldn't be touching the ceiling, you can try taking that off and painting the door another color before deciding to change it and once again the door could do with setting back a little. You could maybe take that doorstep out while you're at it. Also, i don't know what is happening to the right of the door but i see the concrete steps leaing up and feel it would be good to create another level to make it flush with the bottom of the door if structurally possible. This would tie it all in better and you probably wouldn't need any additional definition to your entrance. Anyhow, as i often quote, i'm a firm believer in " Less is More " , and vice versa of course ^^ Question #4 i can't answer as i haven't really understood the problem And #5 i don't think so, but once the other transformations have been taken care of i think you'll find it speaks for itself. Whatever, it's a very exciting project, the bones are great and i'd love to see photos of progression once you get started.

There are some great comment here, but my take on this would be if you are going custom to take your time and look around. Many designers offer different takes on each person's preference. The colours you have are good but I'd personally would opt for a more warmer cream, with a self print pattern. I would also suggest pinch pleated curtains and not pencil pleat as you have currently, pinch pleated curtains will give you uniformed pleats from top to bottom. In addition to this I would suggest you use blackout linen to prevent light to enter the room, and possibly interlining so that you retain some thermal properties in your fixtures. Having custom made curtains are a lifetime choice for most customers, take your time and don't settle for the first company you come across. The space above your bed i would possibly add a sheer fabric roman blind which is slightly see through but enough to give you privacy if you bedroom is situated on the ground floor. You can also get the a roman blind to match your new curtains if you'd like a more repetitive theme in your bedroom. I would suggest if you do opt for a roman blind, and you are looking for a good qualities add blackout linen. If you would like a rough estimation on what you would be looking at we can assist you so you are aware of what most reputable curtain making specialist charge in this current market.