Renovating
Pro Panel: How to Choose the Perfect Flooring for Your Entrance
Wondering which material will work hard, look wonderful and last the distance in your entrance? Step this way...
The entrance is the epitome of a high-traffic area, yet it’s also the first glimpse most people have of your home, so the flooring needs to look good while handling the knocks. There are lots of options and your decision will be guided by how much wear and tear it’s likely to receive, how much maintenance and cleaning you’re willing to do, and the look you’re aiming for.
We asked three UK- and Ireland-based experts to talk through the pros and cons of key flooring options to help you decide which would work best in your home. Read on for top tips from Brian O’Tuama of Brian O’Tuama Architects, Eva Byrne of Houseology, and Benjamin Hawkes of The Flooring Group.
We asked three UK- and Ireland-based experts to talk through the pros and cons of key flooring options to help you decide which would work best in your home. Read on for top tips from Brian O’Tuama of Brian O’Tuama Architects, Eva Byrne of Houseology, and Benjamin Hawkes of The Flooring Group.
Tiles
Hard-wearing, easy to clean and smart-looking, it’s no wonder tiles, whether ceramic, porcelain or encaustic cement, are a classic choice for entrance halls.
As well as a huge range of colours and patterns, there are also several layout options. “Think not only in terms of material,” says Byrne, “but also tile shape and how they’re to be laid – in a regular grid pattern, a brick pattern or on a diagonal.
“Choose pale-coloured tiles for optimum light reflection,” she says. “A little ‘movement’ (a fleck or veining, for example) in the tile will be forgiving of dirt.”
“Bear in mind that intricate patterns will be more expensive to install,” says O’Tuama, “and avoid polished finishes, as they can be slippery.”
Most floor tiles are suitable for use with underfloor heating, but do check to be certain. “Otherwise, you may end up with hairline cracks,” says Byrne.
Need more flooring advice? Find carpet and flooring professionals in your area on Houzz
Hard-wearing, easy to clean and smart-looking, it’s no wonder tiles, whether ceramic, porcelain or encaustic cement, are a classic choice for entrance halls.
As well as a huge range of colours and patterns, there are also several layout options. “Think not only in terms of material,” says Byrne, “but also tile shape and how they’re to be laid – in a regular grid pattern, a brick pattern or on a diagonal.
“Choose pale-coloured tiles for optimum light reflection,” she says. “A little ‘movement’ (a fleck or veining, for example) in the tile will be forgiving of dirt.”
“Bear in mind that intricate patterns will be more expensive to install,” says O’Tuama, “and avoid polished finishes, as they can be slippery.”
Most floor tiles are suitable for use with underfloor heating, but do check to be certain. “Otherwise, you may end up with hairline cracks,” says Byrne.
Need more flooring advice? Find carpet and flooring professionals in your area on Houzz
Ceramic and porcelain tiles
These have a very similar look, though porcelain tiles, made from denser clay fired at a higher temperature, are much tougher than ceramic. “Only use ceramic floor tiles if they’re suitable for heavy traffic,” says O’Tuama. That said, ceramic tiles tend to be cheaper, so they’re ideal if your budget is tight.
Look for tiles with rectified edges, so they can be butted up close to each other, as thinner grout lines harbour less dirt.
Pros: Ceramic and porcelain tiles are durable and generally happy with underfloor heating. “There are numerous cost options and a good range of colours, textures, patterns and sizes,” says O’Tuama. They’re also hygienic and easy to clean.
Cons: Tiles are cold to the touch, can be noisy (depending on the subfloor), and are hard, so dropped objects are more likely to break. They can also feel less characterful than wood and are unrepairable if they do chip.
These have a very similar look, though porcelain tiles, made from denser clay fired at a higher temperature, are much tougher than ceramic. “Only use ceramic floor tiles if they’re suitable for heavy traffic,” says O’Tuama. That said, ceramic tiles tend to be cheaper, so they’re ideal if your budget is tight.
Look for tiles with rectified edges, so they can be butted up close to each other, as thinner grout lines harbour less dirt.
Pros: Ceramic and porcelain tiles are durable and generally happy with underfloor heating. “There are numerous cost options and a good range of colours, textures, patterns and sizes,” says O’Tuama. They’re also hygienic and easy to clean.
Cons: Tiles are cold to the touch, can be noisy (depending on the subfloor), and are hard, so dropped objects are more likely to break. They can also feel less characterful than wood and are unrepairable if they do chip.
Encaustic cement tiles
These classic tiles are made from cement, marble powder and coloured pigments. Encaustic tiles tend to give a traditional look. “They work wonderfully in a period home,” says Byrne. However, there are numerous modern designs that can make a real impact in a contemporary entrance, too.
Pros: They’re so resilient that many Victorian tiled floors still look fabulous today. They’re largely handmade, which gives them a characterful feel. As the pattern is inlaid, rather than being painted on the top of the tile’s surface, it won’t fade with wear and tear. And the depth of colour means that even if they’re chipped, it won’t be very obvious.
They’re easy to clean with soapy water and a mop, though it’s important to avoid anything abrasive or acidic.
Cons: “Encaustic tiles need sealing and may need future re-sealing,” says O’Tuama. “The thickness of the tiles can make level transitions to other rooms difficult, so they’re best suited if the flooring continues throughout an entire level of the property, or if the flooring in adjacent rooms can be made level with the hall floor.”
They tend to be heavier than many ceramic and porcelain designs, so a strong subfloor is important. “They’re also hard underfoot,” says O’Tuama, “though this is not such an issue in a hall.”
These classic tiles are made from cement, marble powder and coloured pigments. Encaustic tiles tend to give a traditional look. “They work wonderfully in a period home,” says Byrne. However, there are numerous modern designs that can make a real impact in a contemporary entrance, too.
Pros: They’re so resilient that many Victorian tiled floors still look fabulous today. They’re largely handmade, which gives them a characterful feel. As the pattern is inlaid, rather than being painted on the top of the tile’s surface, it won’t fade with wear and tear. And the depth of colour means that even if they’re chipped, it won’t be very obvious.
They’re easy to clean with soapy water and a mop, though it’s important to avoid anything abrasive or acidic.
Cons: “Encaustic tiles need sealing and may need future re-sealing,” says O’Tuama. “The thickness of the tiles can make level transitions to other rooms difficult, so they’re best suited if the flooring continues throughout an entire level of the property, or if the flooring in adjacent rooms can be made level with the hall floor.”
They tend to be heavier than many ceramic and porcelain designs, so a strong subfloor is important. “They’re also hard underfoot,” says O’Tuama, “though this is not such an issue in a hall.”
Natural stone
From sandstone, bluestone and limestone to marble, travertine and slate, stone has a timeless quality, with every flag having subtly different characteristics. “They can suit both contemporary and traditional schemes, including more rustic ones,” says O’Tuama.
“If money is no object and the conditions are suitable, stone flags will add opulence and style to your hallway,” says Byrne.
Remember that flagstones are substantially heavier than tiles, though, so make sure your floor can take the weight.
Pros: “They’re durable, there’s a good range of cost options and a good range of (fairly neutral) colours and sizes,” says O’Tuama. “As they’re porous, they’re suitable for use on lime concrete substrates.” They work well with underfloor heating, as they hold on to warmth.
Cons: Without underfloor heating, they’re cold, and they’re hard to the touch. “As they’re porous, they’re prone to staining,” says O’Tuama. “They may need sealing and future re-sealing, though the patina that develops with time can be attractive.” Flagstones tend to be fairy thick too, which may cause floor level difficulties.
From sandstone, bluestone and limestone to marble, travertine and slate, stone has a timeless quality, with every flag having subtly different characteristics. “They can suit both contemporary and traditional schemes, including more rustic ones,” says O’Tuama.
“If money is no object and the conditions are suitable, stone flags will add opulence and style to your hallway,” says Byrne.
Remember that flagstones are substantially heavier than tiles, though, so make sure your floor can take the weight.
Pros: “They’re durable, there’s a good range of cost options and a good range of (fairly neutral) colours and sizes,” says O’Tuama. “As they’re porous, they’re suitable for use on lime concrete substrates.” They work well with underfloor heating, as they hold on to warmth.
Cons: Without underfloor heating, they’re cold, and they’re hard to the touch. “As they’re porous, they’re prone to staining,” says O’Tuama. “They may need sealing and future re-sealing, though the patina that develops with time can be attractive.” Flagstones tend to be fairy thick too, which may cause floor level difficulties.
Timber
If you’re keen on bringing a natural feel into your home, it’s difficult to beat a timber floor, with its pleasing grain and subtle colour shifts. “Wood has an authentic quality that vinyl and laminate cannot provide,” says Hawkes.
Whether you choose solid or engineered wood in the form of long floorboards or parquet, there’s nothing quite like the real thing, and it works in contemporary and traditional settings alike.
Wood will need protecting with either a lacquer, wax or oil. “The kind of maintenance [you’ll need to do] depends on the finish you’ve selected,” says Hawkes. He suggests lacquer provides better protection, but recommends oil, as it offers a more natural look and is easier to sand and reseal a small area if it’s damaged.
“Make sure you deal with any gaps between the boards and underneath the skirting boards to eliminate possible draughts,” says Byrne. “A variety of flexible fillers are available to address this.”
If you’re keen on bringing a natural feel into your home, it’s difficult to beat a timber floor, with its pleasing grain and subtle colour shifts. “Wood has an authentic quality that vinyl and laminate cannot provide,” says Hawkes.
Whether you choose solid or engineered wood in the form of long floorboards or parquet, there’s nothing quite like the real thing, and it works in contemporary and traditional settings alike.
Wood will need protecting with either a lacquer, wax or oil. “The kind of maintenance [you’ll need to do] depends on the finish you’ve selected,” says Hawkes. He suggests lacquer provides better protection, but recommends oil, as it offers a more natural look and is easier to sand and reseal a small area if it’s damaged.
“Make sure you deal with any gaps between the boards and underneath the skirting boards to eliminate possible draughts,” says Byrne. “A variety of flexible fillers are available to address this.”
Pros: Wood is durable and a lifelong product as long as it’s maintained. Solid wood and engineered wood with a thick top layer can be sanded and refinished repeatedly. It’s easy to clean and can be recycled or reused. “It’s relatively easy to install and it can have good sustainability credentials if it’s appropriately sourced,” says O’Tuama. To check the provenance of timber flooring, ask the manufacturer and always select FSC-certified timber.
There’s a good range of cost options with wooden flooring, it can be stained in a wide range of shades, and it’s warm both visually and to the touch.
Engineered wood is also happy with underfloor heating.
There’s a good range of cost options with wooden flooring, it can be stained in a wide range of shades, and it’s warm both visually and to the touch.
Engineered wood is also happy with underfloor heating.
Cons: Solid wood isn’t compatible with underfloor heating. “Oiled wood will be more susceptible to water seeping in and can also be damaged or scratched more easily than a lacquered finish,” says Hawkes.
“Wood will show wear patterns from foot traffic, so it’s best suited with a runner or a no-shoes policy,” says O’Tuama.
It’s difficult to replace a damaged area of timber flooring. “Wood naturally changes colouration over time,” says Hawkes, “meaning that, even if you were to order the exact same product six months later, the replacement timber would show a noticeable difference in appearance to the wood already installed.” Also be aware that parquet is costlier to lay.
“Wood will show wear patterns from foot traffic, so it’s best suited with a runner or a no-shoes policy,” says O’Tuama.
It’s difficult to replace a damaged area of timber flooring. “Wood naturally changes colouration over time,” says Hawkes, “meaning that, even if you were to order the exact same product six months later, the replacement timber would show a noticeable difference in appearance to the wood already installed.” Also be aware that parquet is costlier to lay.
Vinyl
Advances in technology mean vinyl flooring, also known as LVT (luxury vinyl tiles), can convincingly mimic materials such as wood, tiles and stone, but for a fraction of the cost.
It’s also pretty tough, so if you like the idea of wood, but have pets and/or young children, wood-look vinyl with a scuff-proof coating could be just the ticket.
“Vinyl comes in both tile and roll form and a huge range of colours, patterns and effects,” says Byrne. “Choose a cushion-backed vinyl for optimal comfort and longevity.”
Pros: Vinyl flooring is warmer to the touch than tiles, easy to clean and generally a cheaper option. It’s also softer than many other surfaces. “Vinyl flooring can be a great solution for apartments where you want a hard surface, but where timber floors may be prohibited on acoustic grounds,” says Byrne.
Unlike natural wood, which changes colour over time, sections of vinyl can be replaced – providing the manufacturer still makes the colour you initially chose. “Because it’s not a natural product, you can often simply remove a few planks that are damaged and replace them if required,” says Hawkes.
Cons: Vinyl flooring is generally fine with underfloor heating, but there’s often a heat restriction, so do check before buying. Even though it’s scratch-resistant, it can get damaged, so it needs to be cleaned frequently. If damaged, it’s unrepairable.
The subfloor also has to be very flat. “Vinyl in itself is relatively easy to lay; the difficulty is in preparing the subfloor … which needs to be perfectly smooth,” says Hawkes.
Browse more beautiful entrances to inspire your own
Advances in technology mean vinyl flooring, also known as LVT (luxury vinyl tiles), can convincingly mimic materials such as wood, tiles and stone, but for a fraction of the cost.
It’s also pretty tough, so if you like the idea of wood, but have pets and/or young children, wood-look vinyl with a scuff-proof coating could be just the ticket.
“Vinyl comes in both tile and roll form and a huge range of colours, patterns and effects,” says Byrne. “Choose a cushion-backed vinyl for optimal comfort and longevity.”
Pros: Vinyl flooring is warmer to the touch than tiles, easy to clean and generally a cheaper option. It’s also softer than many other surfaces. “Vinyl flooring can be a great solution for apartments where you want a hard surface, but where timber floors may be prohibited on acoustic grounds,” says Byrne.
Unlike natural wood, which changes colour over time, sections of vinyl can be replaced – providing the manufacturer still makes the colour you initially chose. “Because it’s not a natural product, you can often simply remove a few planks that are damaged and replace them if required,” says Hawkes.
Cons: Vinyl flooring is generally fine with underfloor heating, but there’s often a heat restriction, so do check before buying. Even though it’s scratch-resistant, it can get damaged, so it needs to be cleaned frequently. If damaged, it’s unrepairable.
The subfloor also has to be very flat. “Vinyl in itself is relatively easy to lay; the difficulty is in preparing the subfloor … which needs to be perfectly smooth,” says Hawkes.
Browse more beautiful entrances to inspire your own
Linoleum and cork
If you’d like a soft surface but prefer a natural, environmentally friendly material, consider linoleum or cork. Both are warm and forgiving underfoot, and cork in particular has a little bounce to it. “Objects are less likely to break when dropped,” says O’Tuama.
“There’s a good range of colours, particularly with linoleum, and it’s quite easy to create bespoke patterns, as they’re both easy to cut,” he says.
Pros: Linoleum and cork are generally cost-effective, easy to install, and suitable for underfloor heating. They can work nicely in contemporary and traditional schemes.
“They’re both easy to clean, relatively quiet, thin (so there are few issues with transitions to other rooms) and have good eco credentials,” says O’Tuama. “Linoleum sheet (as opposed to tiles) can give a seamless appearance.”
Cons: Linoleum and cork can fade and wear over time. Cork can scratch easily, and both can be dented and even broken. “They can be damaged by impact or stiletto heels,” says O’Tuama.
If you’d like a soft surface but prefer a natural, environmentally friendly material, consider linoleum or cork. Both are warm and forgiving underfoot, and cork in particular has a little bounce to it. “Objects are less likely to break when dropped,” says O’Tuama.
“There’s a good range of colours, particularly with linoleum, and it’s quite easy to create bespoke patterns, as they’re both easy to cut,” he says.
Pros: Linoleum and cork are generally cost-effective, easy to install, and suitable for underfloor heating. They can work nicely in contemporary and traditional schemes.
“They’re both easy to clean, relatively quiet, thin (so there are few issues with transitions to other rooms) and have good eco credentials,” says O’Tuama. “Linoleum sheet (as opposed to tiles) can give a seamless appearance.”
Cons: Linoleum and cork can fade and wear over time. Cork can scratch easily, and both can be dented and even broken. “They can be damaged by impact or stiletto heels,” says O’Tuama.
Concrete and microcement
If it’s a contemporary aesthetic you’re after, concrete flooring might be for you. It is expensive, however, so as O’Tuama says, “The larger the area, the more cost-effective it is, so it’s better for full refurbishment projects rather than retrofits and smaller areas”.
Microcement – a mix of cement, polymers, additives, very fine aggregates and natural pigments – however, gives a concrete look, but can be applied in a much thinner layer. It’s normally applied over suitable substrates in a three-millimetre-thick layer and has a textural, almost mottled, aesthetic. “Microcement is a more practical and cost-effective alternative for the refurbishment of a small area such as a hall, and its thickness will make it easier to achieve level transitions with the flooring in adjacent rooms,” says O’Tuama.
Pros: Concrete and microcement are very durable, with a seamless appearance, and are suitable for use with underfloor heating. They’re available in various colours and textures, and are hygienic and anti-slip. Microcement can be laid on floorboards and tiles with a suitable base on top, and it shouldn’t crack. It can also be taken right up over the walls, ceiling and some fixtures if you’re after a uniform look.
Cons: “Concrete is best used with a concrete slab substrate, so older properties with suspended timber ground floors are generally not suitable,” says O’Tuama. “Cracking is almost inevitable [with concrete], so a pristine surface can’t be guaranteed,” he says. “The polished surface will wear in high-traffic areas, so may need future refinishing, which is a messy process – as is the installation itself,” he says.
If it’s a contemporary aesthetic you’re after, concrete flooring might be for you. It is expensive, however, so as O’Tuama says, “The larger the area, the more cost-effective it is, so it’s better for full refurbishment projects rather than retrofits and smaller areas”.
Microcement – a mix of cement, polymers, additives, very fine aggregates and natural pigments – however, gives a concrete look, but can be applied in a much thinner layer. It’s normally applied over suitable substrates in a three-millimetre-thick layer and has a textural, almost mottled, aesthetic. “Microcement is a more practical and cost-effective alternative for the refurbishment of a small area such as a hall, and its thickness will make it easier to achieve level transitions with the flooring in adjacent rooms,” says O’Tuama.
Pros: Concrete and microcement are very durable, with a seamless appearance, and are suitable for use with underfloor heating. They’re available in various colours and textures, and are hygienic and anti-slip. Microcement can be laid on floorboards and tiles with a suitable base on top, and it shouldn’t crack. It can also be taken right up over the walls, ceiling and some fixtures if you’re after a uniform look.
Cons: “Concrete is best used with a concrete slab substrate, so older properties with suspended timber ground floors are generally not suitable,” says O’Tuama. “Cracking is almost inevitable [with concrete], so a pristine surface can’t be guaranteed,” he says. “The polished surface will wear in high-traffic areas, so may need future refinishing, which is a messy process – as is the installation itself,” he says.
Terrazzo
Available as terrazzo tiles or poured in-situ for a seamless slab, terrazzo is an elegant choice for an entrance. It’s a mix of cement and crushed marble, granite, quartz and/or glass, so there are numerous options and the patterns are unique.
Pros: Terrazzo retains warmth, so it’s great with underfloor heating. If sealed and well-maintained, it should last a lifetime. “It’s great for homes with pets,” says Byrne.
“If poured in-situ, it has the advantage over tiles of having no grouting, thus offering a smooth, easily maintained and hygienic finish,” she says.
Cons: It’s expensive to install in-situ, cold without heating and hard underfoot. If it cracks, it will need to be reground and repolished. It can also be slippery if it gets wet.
Available as terrazzo tiles or poured in-situ for a seamless slab, terrazzo is an elegant choice for an entrance. It’s a mix of cement and crushed marble, granite, quartz and/or glass, so there are numerous options and the patterns are unique.
Pros: Terrazzo retains warmth, so it’s great with underfloor heating. If sealed and well-maintained, it should last a lifetime. “It’s great for homes with pets,” says Byrne.
“If poured in-situ, it has the advantage over tiles of having no grouting, thus offering a smooth, easily maintained and hygienic finish,” she says.
Cons: It’s expensive to install in-situ, cold without heating and hard underfoot. If it cracks, it will need to be reground and repolished. It can also be slippery if it gets wet.
Laminate
Laminate flooring has a high-definition photographic image that’s glued onto a high-density fibreboard core and topped with a protective layer of resin or melamine. While it tends to bring to mind timber boards (as seen here), it can also mimic materials such as tiles and stone, depending on the photograph.
Pros: Good-quality laminate is hard-wearing and easy to clean. “The benefit of laminate is often in its pricing, with options available that are much cheaper than wood or vinyl,” says Hawkes. “This allows entry-level customers to have a floor that should last 10 years on average.” Laminate doesn’t stain, doesn’t need sealing and is easy to fit.
Cons: It’s less visually appealing than wood and can’t be refinished if it’s damaged or worn. It’s not always suitable for use with underfloor heating, so do your homework. “Laminate is often as easy to scratch as wood products and does not provide the same durability of vinyl,” says Hawkes.
Laminate flooring has a high-definition photographic image that’s glued onto a high-density fibreboard core and topped with a protective layer of resin or melamine. While it tends to bring to mind timber boards (as seen here), it can also mimic materials such as tiles and stone, depending on the photograph.
Pros: Good-quality laminate is hard-wearing and easy to clean. “The benefit of laminate is often in its pricing, with options available that are much cheaper than wood or vinyl,” says Hawkes. “This allows entry-level customers to have a floor that should last 10 years on average.” Laminate doesn’t stain, doesn’t need sealing and is easy to fit.
Cons: It’s less visually appealing than wood and can’t be refinished if it’s damaged or worn. It’s not always suitable for use with underfloor heating, so do your homework. “Laminate is often as easy to scratch as wood products and does not provide the same durability of vinyl,” says Hawkes.
Dirt management
When choosing flooring for your entrance, bear in mind the fact that people will be coming in with dirty shoes. “A recessed mat well just inside the door, with an inset mat laid flush with the floor finish, will prompt those entering to wipe their feet,” says Byrne.
A runner can be useful as a second dust and dirt catcher, but Byrne advises, “Use a quality underlay beneath the runner, so it’s kept in place and doesn’t cause a trip hazard”.
Your turn
Which flooring do you love in your entrance – or which type do you wish you had? Share your thoughts in the Comments, like this story, save the images for inspiration and join the conversation.
More
Need more top home design tips? Read this Renovation Insight: How to Choose a Sustainable Architect
When choosing flooring for your entrance, bear in mind the fact that people will be coming in with dirty shoes. “A recessed mat well just inside the door, with an inset mat laid flush with the floor finish, will prompt those entering to wipe their feet,” says Byrne.
A runner can be useful as a second dust and dirt catcher, but Byrne advises, “Use a quality underlay beneath the runner, so it’s kept in place and doesn’t cause a trip hazard”.
Your turn
Which flooring do you love in your entrance – or which type do you wish you had? Share your thoughts in the Comments, like this story, save the images for inspiration and join the conversation.
More
Need more top home design tips? Read this Renovation Insight: How to Choose a Sustainable Architect
Before you set your heart on a particular product, bear in mind that your existing floor or subfloor might need to be modified.
“The construction of the structural floor will have a bearing on what material you choose and how you lay it,” says Byrne. “A concrete floor (typical of most contemporary houses) can accommodate most floor coverings. A suspended timber floor (typical of period houses and early semis) will normally already include some form of timber boarding. You will need to lay a ply base on top of this to achieve a level surface for laying tiles.
“If you want to fit a new timber floor, it might be prudent to remove the existing boards, so as not to raise the floor level too much,” she says. “If you increase the floor thickness by too much, you run the risk of making the first step of the stairs lower than the subsequent ones, which will not comply with building regulations.”