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"but cannot figure out how to attach the door .... DW18PR"
- Browse to: https://us.bertazzoni.com/specifications-library-2
- Enter "DW18PR" in the Quick Search field.
- Click on the product.
- The Installation Template appears (which provides the dimensions of the panel)
- The Installation Manual appears (which shows how to attach the panel on page 23)
The usual stuff applies. Residential hoods assumed. En brief:
- The hood needs to overlap the cooking utensils by several inches due to plume expansion with plume rise. This applies to front to back depth as well as width. Hood base height above the cooktop between 30 and 36 inches is recommended. For higher spacing, larger hoods with more air flow rate are needed.
- The air flow rate into the hood's entry aperture should be of the order of 90 ft/min, which equates to 90 CFM per square foot of aperture. Slightly less may be sufficient with induction due to no gas plume, but that somewhat depends on cooking and whether there is much turbulence in the area from movement, a/c cross flow drafts, and make-up air (MUA) introduction.
- Assume that with baffles and MUA pressure losses, the actual flow of a blower will be about 2/3 of its rated flow.
- Duct diameter should be such that the flow velocity in the duct is between 1000 and 2000 ft/min at full power.
- If you want quiet, it is necessary to use an external or in-line blower with a silencer in the duct path between hood and blower. This suppresses blower blade tip turbulence noise and some downstream duct turbulence noise. Baffle hiss will remain.
MUA system details are another subject area to address after the Hood system details are preliminarily determined. MUA will need to be defined before ordering hood system parts due to possible interacting requirements.
Variations in lighting will be present with different hoods. I can only report from experience that my Wolf Pro Island hood is adequate in that respect with its original halogen lamps and with replacement LED lamps.
Feel free to ask about application of these rules. Review of the immense number of kitchen ventilation threads (topics) on this forum is recommended, even though it will take a significant number of hours. This is the most complicated aspect of kitchen design, in my view, unless you are learning the NEC (NFPA 70) in preparation for DIY electrical layout and installation.
For a 36"W cooktop (or range), I would get a 42"W x 24"D hood. Install no higher (or lower) than the manufacturer's specs state. As Kaseki mentioned, usually 30" to 36" above the cooking surface. Most, I think, say 30", but some allow for up to 36".
FOGSS (Fumes, Odors, Grease, Smoke, Steam) spread out as the rise, so a hood wider than the cooking surface is generally recommended, especially when there are no upper cabinets abutted the hood.
Regarding fan and MUA, see Kaseki's comments above - especially about searching the Kitchens Forum (and, maybe, the Appliances Forum) for more information.
Fascinating. I assume the dimensions are in millimeters, with a quantization of 5mm or 0.2 inches. Here in S. NH, which gets much of its lumber from Canada, finding lumber that consistently had less than 5 mm of twist or warping would be unlikely. So I'll assume that between architect and construction crew, the dimensions become aspirational. On the other hand, metal framing might be capable of meeting the implied tolerances given a sufficiently finicky construction crew.
With respect to the design, I find it strange that the bathrooms are abjectly private, but the dressing rooms are not. Must be a cultural thing outside my experience.
The bathroom "hallways" are only 0.9m (about a yard) wide, and this will narrow if hooks or towel bars are installed. Sufficient surface space and hanging space needs to be considered during the design process.
The showers seem cramped for my taste. I think if a relaxing bath is desirable, I'd put one of them in a separate room with a view, and expand the shower bases.
Time spent awake in the bedroom may turn out to be less than the time spent in the bathroom, so allocation of more space to bathrooms and less to the bedroom would seem to me to be justified.
Anyway, I am interpreting the OP's title as direction without regard to whether it was intended to refer to interior design or architectural design. If only interior, "never mind."
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I can only speak to my own (ca 2010) kitchen reno, but I supported my large SS sink on steel angle attached to cleats on the cabinet walls. But however it is supported, the top of the sink flange needs to be no higher than flush* with the tops of the cabinet sides that are supporting the stone. And while you are at it, use a large level to ensure that all sides, fronts, and backs are level and in the same plane.
To minimize stone damage, one would cut the stone slightly larger than the sink upper edge shape so accidental bumping by pots and pans will more often intersect the sink edge and not the stone (in my case soapstone).
And discussion as advised with the countertop people is a good idea.
*a thin gap between stone and sink metal will facilitate a layer of silicone sealant.
My large main sink (29.5 x 16.5) has 1/4-inch positive reveal in soapstone; my significantly smaller prep sink has zero reveal (flush) fitting in granite. Generally, things in contact with the edges of the prep sink are soft. Nonetheless, it is best to expect that stuff happens.
The fabricator will be installing the sink to the granite, however the plumber will be making the connections to the hot, cold and drain. So are you referring to the fabricator or to the plumber?
I'm trying to understand the sequence. Does this cutting out of the decking need to be done prior to templating? My concern is that I want the templating to reflect installing the stainless steel undermounted sink as close as possible to the right side of the sink base cabinet. Recall I'm going to have three Sinkit clips, whose "slots" have to be fabricated into the underside of the granite countertop.
For clarification, I'm going to have Sinkits clips on three sides of the sink: front, back & left. Fabricator won't work with me if I do HUSH alone.
ETA: this was in reply to a post that now seems to have been deleted.
For me one of the attractions of KitchenAid mixers has been their being repairable even by DIYers like me. There is a wealth of helpful online resources including detailed videos, facebook groups, reddit groups, blogs, etc. giving exact procedures for troubleshooting KitchenAid mixers as well as actually making repairs and/or renovations. Replacement parts remain available for decades, They even are still available for vintage K5SS and K45 models.
Those resources helped me fix my old K5SS a couple of times as well as helped with servicing some other vintage KA mixers for friends. These resources also helped me sort out what needed to be done on my KSM8990.
You suggested that I just jumped to conclusions on replacing my Commercial KSM8990 rather than rebuilding it. Not so. I spent a lot more time than a "few minutes" on my KSM8990. As mentioned previously, I found multiple different damages caused by my decade of constantly disregarding the instruction to only use the dough hook on speed 2 (the setting with the most torque on KA mixers.) As things turned out for me, it just worked out to be less costly and more convenient for me to buy the discounted KSM60 from Costco instead of rebuilding my KSM8990.
FWIW, I donated that KSM8990 to the local repair servicer who not only confirmed every aspect of what I thought needed doing but led to that KSM8990 now sitting on their shelf for "things we might get around to someday or else use for parts." I didn't bring it to your shop because you are in San Diego and 1400 miles away. :>)
EPILOGUE: ONE YEAR LATER
It's been exactly one year since I posed this question and we have moved back into our kitchen. I've updated the OP with details about the direction we chose, including the Wolf Pro Island hood, 900cfm remote blower, and FanTech MUAS. I couldn't have done it without your advice.
It's all performing like a dream. I'm practically teary-eyed about how well the ventilation system works now.
If there are any disappointments, it's that the hood is louder than I expected when it's on medium to high power. We have a duct silencer on the MUAS and that side is whisper quiet, but on the hood side, I thought that with a fairly direct path through 10" ducts to a remote blower, the hood would be quiet as well. Not so. I'm wondering if installing an inline blower and a duct silencer on that side would have been the smarter choice.
Put an LD10 in the path between hood and remote blower. You have nothing attenuating the blade tip turbulence of the remote blower. The blower noise ducts down to the hood relatively unimpaired. The only noise you should get at full power is hood baffle hiss, plus perhaps a bit of rumble from an imperfectly balanced remote fan.
If you can hear duct rattle or feel a lot of vibration in the duct surfaces when in the attic, use the weighted pads sold for automotive use wrapped around the duct. Loooong tie wraps will be needed as the pad glues aren't good enough for a good attachment upside down on the bottom side of the duct sections.
Fantech makes some nice clamps that may help interface their silencers to ducts.
Tis a mystery. Are the baffles themselves less "thick" than the baffle assembly ends such that they would go under the fan housings when properly aligned with them?
is there a grease trough missing that should be positioning these differently?