If I stack ripe tomatoes more than two deep they turn to paste . Filling milk cartons would be disastrous. Maybe that is why supermarkets do not sale tasty tomatoes. Tasty varieties don't ship well. I suppose it doesn't matter anyhow because the way customers treat produce at supermarket they would be destroyed anyhow. Have you ever stopped to observe people rooting through meat and produce then moving on without choosing any?

"...I place my mature green/blush tomatoes in bread racks they deliver bread to the stores with. Stack them up in the garage and every one ripens quickly with no rotting."

That's a great idea, especially end of season when have to harvest because of the weather. I don't have bread racks, but I can jimmy-rig something out in the barn. Do you have any issues with insects trying to get at them?

I never had any problem with insects or rodents in my detached garage. It's not sealed tight and I always have a few doors hanging open so insects can come and go with ease.

I've had these racks at least 10 years and use them for garlic, tomatoes, onions, potatoes or anything else it need to stack, and now I don't know what I'd do without them. When I'm not using them they stack half the height behind the garage uncovered and haven't faded, gotten brittle or degraded a bit. Big tomatoes are placed in one layer, Roma's and other paste tomatoes are filled to the top and never had them squish or not ripen evenly.

You can buy them new for $11.49 each and shipping is $20 for up to 6. ordering 7 to 12 is $40 and so on. Ordering just one rack is still $20 shipping so think in half dozen quantities for the best value, I have 12. If you want your name or logo hot stamped in them it's $400. These are commercial grade that takes a beating and the same ones the bread companies use. Ordering website link.

"What would you do here?"

I would build a new door PRE_HUNG from Eastern Red Cedar. Pre-hung because a much better fit can be had and ERC because it's rot resistant and moves less than other wood during wet-dry cycles. Even threashold can be made of Cedar because it does well with ground contact. This is doable in home shop with tablesaw and router but does require medium skill.

That's some kool diggs to unwind in.

You want a prehung (important to keep out cold, rain and snow) fiberglass door. You can find one on-line, look for rustic, with a window. No storm door is necessary.

I googled the weighted leather strap idea and it is possible; maybe your husband can take a look at this AI suggestion.

• The Inside Mechanism (The Gravity Latch): Install an interior-mounted, heavy-duty iron drop-bar gravity latch. Because it is weighted on one side, gravity naturally forces the bar downward into its catching cradle every time the door shuts.
• The Exterior Function (The Leather Strap): Drill a small, clean hole through the cabin door right beneath the drop bar. Tie a thick piece of full-grain saddle leather or bridle leather to the latch bar, thread it through the hole to the outside, and weight the exterior end with an antique iron ring or decorative brass fob. Tugging down on the outside leather strap lifts the internal weighted bar.

Adding Front-Door Security: Because a leather strap latch can be opened by anyone walking up to the door, you must install an independent, matching deadbolt directly above or below it. Pair your strap assembly with an oil-rubbed bronze or distressed iron deadbolt cylinder to keep the cabin safe when you are away.

Fun project...what else are you doing to the exterior?

Donn'tchee just hate it when you accidently fix it and have no idea why? Maybe next time someone says their system isn't cooling well we will uggest replacing blower.

I would surmise that replacing the blower fan has resulted in higher air flow and that before the replacement the air flow was too low.

"my ac has always struggled and basically ran 24/7"

"If i only increase airflow why does my system perform better?"

Answer from Copilot Ai:

If the blower in a split‑system air conditioner runs too slowly, the entire refrigeration cycle is pushed outside its design envelope. The immediate effect is insufficient airflow across the evaporator coil, and from there a cascade of predictable failures follows.

Core takeaway

A too‑slow blower causes the evaporator coil to get too cold, leading to icing, poor cooling, high humidity, longer runtimes, and potential compressor damage.

What actually happens inside the system

1. Evaporator coil temperature drops → frost and ice formation

Low airflow means the coil cannot shed heat fast enough. Air lingers on the coil surface, refrigerant absorbs less heat, and coil temperature falls below 32°F.

• Ice begins at the distributor or lower rows
• Frost expands and chokes airflow further
• Eventually the system enters a runaway freeze‑up condition

2. Humidity removal increases briefly, then collapses

Initially, slow airflow increases latent removal because the coil is colder. But once the coil starts icing, moisture can no longer reach the coil surface.

• Indoor humidity rises
• Supply air becomes cold but clammy

3. Temperature distribution becomes uneven

With reduced CFM, conditioned air cannot travel through the duct system at proper velocity.

• Rooms far from the air handler get little airflow
• Hot/cold spots appear

4. Compressor runs with abnormal suction pressure

Low airflow → low evaporator pressure → high compression ratio. This increases:

• Compressor amp draw
• Discharge temperature
• Long‑term wear

5. System may short‑cycle on safety limits

If airflow is too low, the coil can freeze or the heat exchanger (in heat mode) can overheat. Either condition triggers limit switches that shut the system down prematurely.

Why manufacturers specify minimum airflow

Residential systems are designed around roughly 350–450 CFM per ton. Below that range, the coil simply cannot operate in a stable thermodynamic state.

Summary

A slow blower in a split system AC is not a minor comfort issue — it destabilizes the refrigeration cycle. The consequences include coil icing, humidity problems, uneven cooling, higher energy use, and potential compressor damage.

When you replace the motor did you you clean the squirrel cage blower? That may of done it.

Ever head it said "one picture is worth a thousand words"? Well this demonstrates how that works. Despite op repeatedly denying door leaks, the picture clearly tells us that someone certainly thought door was leaking. Note the gobs of fresh caulk. I hope all that caulk wasn't applied strictly for appearance.

All that is to say Joseph is right, cussing and discussing doesn't fix it. Time to get busy facing facts.

I just got it replaced.

No mold. Whatever water was there a long time ago looks like it has been dry for years.

Not sure what the black material behind the drywall is. Looks like plastic, but I didn’t look at it closely. I just took a quick picture when the contractor stepped away.

I replaced my water-damaged baseboard recently, and small, sturdy fasteners made the job smooth. I keep a full assortment of machine screws on hand for trim and metal fixture repairs of all kinds.

As Grandmaw used to say "you aren't just wolfing me with this rattle business are you"?

Would kicking qulify as rattling. I kicked one of my heat schorched plants last week but it still hasn't produced any big juicy tomatos. ):

I got about 7½ inches of rain this week. Wind with soggy ground has blown corn over some and too soft to straighten up yet....some tomato cages went over some or a lot too. Other things growing well. Late watermeons looking good, especially Sangria. Early ones wilted and died suddenly.

Susan, I'm in Michigan, zone 5b, and just got my first ripe tomato a couple of days ago, a Rutgers. Well, I got a few SunGold, but I never count them as "real" tomatoes, LOL, those are a snack. Yesterday I picked the first ripe Cherokee Purple and we had BLTs for supper.

I hope you have managed a ripe tomato by now. I never get ripe tomatoes until about the first week or so in August, this year it was a bit later than usual but I didn't get plants in the ground until the end of May because it was too cold. Now it's too hot, sheesh.

Annie

I guess not giving up pays off. I was able to remove the cover and got to the drain pan, which was very filthy. Got it all cleaned out, applied some Nu-Calgon Foam (no rinse), and all working very well. At least for now...

If at first you don't suceed,try again. You've earned an atta boy award.

Don't become frustered if it starts leaking again in a few days. No rinse cleaner sometimes does such a good job on exceptionally dirty coils that debris washed out lodges in drain. A bit of insurance can be had by pouring water through drain 2 or 3 days after applying cleaner then 1 week and 2 weeks later. Idea being to "flush" debris that might otherwise stack up. I'm not advocating disassembly again. Hopfully a tube can reach pan to squirt some water,otherrwise while unit is off water can be squirted onto coil where it runs down and out. If terminal end of drain is visable, looking for stuff being wshed out might indicate efforts are helping.

Friend you are playing a fools game by dinking around the net asking people to wag at this.. So you expect a baby? What do you think the pregnant lady(I assume you) is, a door knob? It's inexcusable not jumping on this at first suspension.

Odors are the bane of building managers. I've gone on countless calls for natural gas odor in buildings which are all electric. To that add all the times I've made calls for odors and on investigation, 5 individuals describe odor smelling like 5 totally different things. I'm not making light of your situation so my best advice is consult with a lab to find how to gather samples for lab analysis specifically targeting mold spores. Odds are no spores are found,meaning although it smells like mold, it's something else. If spores are found, odds are they are not harmful. What I'm suggesting is to find out well in advance of baby arriving. A mother shouldn't have to worry about another thing besides baby until her mind and body are 100% back to normal. If it's harmless, you can rest easy and concentrate on the baby. If it turns out to be dangerous you can seek alternate lodging,file insurance claim and start remediation.

Hi, Anna,

Infiltration (leakage) of outdoor air is fairly common in homes. Older homes, with little or no air sealing, will tend to have higher air infiltration rates than homes built to meet modern building codes. Infiltration can occur around windows, doors, electrical receptacles, and penetrations in exterior walls. The rim joist is a major source of air leakage in homes with crawl spaces or basements. Infiltration of humid outdoor air can increase indoor relative humidity without suitable controls.

Higher relative humidity (>50% RH) is conducive to microbial action--some of which may produce odors perceived as "musty/moldy" without actual mold growth.

If you have an air conditioner, it can help to dehumidify the indoor air-- provided the dewpoint is higher than the air conditioner's evaporator coil temperature and provided the thermostat is calling for cooling. In upstate NY (at least the part where I grew up,) cooling might only be required for a few hours a day a couple of days each year. If that's the case, you'll need to consider other alternatives to maintain the indoor relative humidity below 50% when air conditioning is not called for. Your local NYS health dept. may be a good resource or at least direct you to others who can help with your specific needs.

Thank goodness you and your beans have no connection with Jack and his beans. After using his bean plant to access a home, Jack was invited in and fed by lady of the house then returned the favor by looting the place. When the lady's husband chased Jack away, Jack killed him. The widow was left to suffer in poverty after Jack made off with the couple's life savings..

I find it contemptable that folks entertain little ones by telling them about Jack's dastardly deed.

Are they pole beans or bush beans? These are way too short in late July to be pole beans so I'm guessing they're bush beans, but what does the plant tag say?

Pole beans don't really pick up and start producing heavily where I am until at least mid-late July, and that's if you start them early indoors (which I do). I can't speak to bush beans. Give them a little more time to see what they do. Good point above about too much nitrogen.

I didn't do nuttin. I'm scared of heights!