Clever Boy!

C-Lane: I have the PHS925. What part numbers do you have

WB27X29191 - control board (not the touch panel)

WB27X29191 - main board (not the glass cooktop)

WB26X10272 - cooling fan

I know that these are not plug-compatible with the PHS920, but not sure about the 925. If your research indicates they are, I can send photos to confirm.

I’m back in the market, and saw that Yale currently has GE Profile as one of the most reliable induction ranges. Of course, even they have a relatively small sample.

I have to say our replacement GE Profile Induction range has been flawless. They seem to have fixed the issues we experienced with the earlier generations. To keep it happy, we'll avoid self-cleaning.

I'm glad to hear that, since the GE Profile (PHS930BLTS) has become my top choice. I was looking higher-end, but a recent bout of unemployment has me scaling my ambitions back from 'showpiece' to 'solid performer'. My appliance dealer has their own repair staff, so I may consider their extended warranty if the terms look good.

@Joseph Hodge, I would avoid GE like the plague...

FWIW after following this thread and others regarding the quality of the GE Profile Induction Range I played it safe and instead ordered the GE Cafe Induction range over 3 years ago. It's been rock solid. Also used oven self clean function many times. There is a discussion group about that model on Houzz. Got it from Costco which included a 4 year warranty, which I've had no need to use it.

With most companies, you would assume/hope when they produced an engineering Lemon, they wouldn't follow up with another one. But the pain with this range has been so bad, it leaves a "bad taste in your mouth". I have 100% GE Profile/Cafe Kitchen. I'm having some trust issues regarding their induction product. I should not have to eat this.

We're still using ours. The one, "warming area is still hot," light we had as an issue was cleared with a power reset. That being said, I've not used the oven cleaning mode and don't plan too. There must be some combination of heat and use that starts the decline on these things and with just two of us in the house, we aren't meeting it (yet?) We have 3 years extended warranty so we may as well get our use out of it during that time.

My problem is identical to the "mother" Statement and question submitted by Joe Brooks 5 years ago. After reading all the comments of the GE PHB920 induction range I have not seen any comments that 'GE has found a fix for these problems', Once every 2 or 3 weeks the burners and oven won't work for about 10 minutes and then magically seem to work again for another couple of weeks,.

I really have enjoyed using this range when its working, I like the oven, I really like the number system for each of the top burners (20 increments of intensity), and like the way the unit looks in my kitchen. I've owned this range for over 4 years.

1. So I would like to keep the range and fix it, assuming that GE has accepted accountability for this failure, and has found a fix?
2. Otherwise I would like to get the model they are currently selling (PHS930). if the new model doesn't have a similar problem?.

Looking forward to you comments

John Gates

Oceanside CA

Hi John,

After several service calls where the tech arrived and the range worked just fine I complained to GE and they offered a significant discount on a new range of the then-current model. I had become dependent on the oven probe and I chose not to take them up on their offer since the ranges they offered did not have the probe.

In 2019 the range went on the blink on Thanksgiving, which was the last straw. We decided to replace it and after some research we chose to buy the PHS930 slide in. We have been happy with that decision. We had to learn to be careful with our hands around the control panel. A time or two we have accidentally brushed it with our fingers and changed the burner settings (simmer to High has devastating potential if you don't notice).

I didn't expect to care but I found the WiFi connectivity to be a useful feature. When I'm using the Oven Probe it is nice to get a notification when cooking is done if I am in a different part of the house or out in the yard.

I was happy to have the extended warranty when a mouse got in and committed suicide by stepping across the high voltage terminals under the cooktop. Although the range still worked, the warranty covered replacing the singed PC board.

It's a bummer that GE doesn't appear to have a fix for the PHB920 problems but so fat at least the PHS930 appears to be a good choice as a replacement.

Joe Brooks

@Joe Brooks, were you out of Warranty at the offer of a discount? If so, how far out of Warranty?

thank you Joe for your details. I can't imagine the swearing that must have gone in your household on that fateful Thanksgiving.

But good to hear that PHS930 is better (so far!). Also that GE reduced your price, may I ask what they gave you back $$ on that deal? and Les Garten's warranty question?

There are several features that are on the new model that seem promising:

1. the Wireless connection that you mentioned
2. the elongation of the 2 8" burners on the left, for grilling/griddling
3. the Air-Fryer in the oven (we all need more french fries LOL)
4. also oven racks that stay in the oven when cleaning (however I always kept them in to no apparent detriment with the 920 model)

Mine came right before Thanksgiving also. No range for Thanksgiving, Xmas, and New Years. Very unhappy folks around here then.

Les and John, I went back through this thread and my financials. I bought the PHB920 in May, 2014. I started this thread 5 years ago, so 2016 maybe? Three years ago I posted that GE had offered a replacement at a discount, so I'm guessing that was around 2017. I think that would put it two to three years out of warranty. In a later post I said GE offered me a new range for $500 including installation and disposal. That was for a standard GE range, and I chose not to accept because we decided we really like our oven probe, and GE stopped including the probes in their ranges. Also at that time I didn't think I would want a slide-in.

When I finally decided to replace the old range and started my research that oven probe requirement was surprisingly restrictive. Local availability and feature set quickly zeroed me in on the Profile PHS930. It did not occur to me to go back the GE Customer Support to ask for a deal so I don't know if I could have got a discount on the Profile range.

Features of interest:

I like the wireless connection. Remote control is not always on. It's best to make sure it's enabled before you leave if you think you will want to remotely start the oven. Otherwise maybe you'll connect and maybe you won't. However, that's not the only benefit of the wireless connection. When there is a status change in the range, it will send a notification to my iPhone and Apple Watch, for example telling me that preheat is complete, the timer is done or the Oven Probe has reached its set temperature. Very useful when I'm out of hearing range which foe me is not far at all. Also since it's connected to my WiFi the clock is always set right, even after a power failure or DST change.

The linked burners on the left work well for griddling or deglazing my roasting pan. When I bought the range there was a promotion that included a "free" tri-ply cookware set, which included a nice griddle. As long as I gave it time to preheat properly the bridged burners provided a very uniform surface temperature.

The Air-Fryer feature doesn't ring a bell. Maybe it's a new feature, or maybe I didn't care so didn't think about it.

I'm afraid to clean the oven for fear the heat will damage the electronics. It can be a little smoky when I open the oven after preheating so I'll probably have to give it a try at some point.

I hope this was useful information. I'm happy to provide more opinion if you want it.

I bought my PHS920SF1SS in October 2013. A few years ago, once every few months or so, it started randomly shutting itself off when the oven and cooktop were being used simultaneously.

All I had to do to get it to turn on again was to reboot it, by cycling the power at the circuit breaker. Recently however, it began shutting itself down every time we used oven & cooktop together. Sometimes rebooting would not help, I also had to let the unit cool down. No error codes were ever displayed.

Turns out the problem was a defective high limit switch.

Hey folks,

Just noticed I am having an issue with the large right side element. It is working but now right. Very slow to get water to boil. The other elements all seem to work perfectly.

Anybody else seen this?

Did anybody ever find a copy of the Service Manual for this specific model? I have one for the PHS925 which is pretty similar.

Les

I've  had  my GE induction for 8 year and have had all the same problems . I even had the mother board replaced. I've  finally had it with this brand and will be looking at other brands. Any suggestions?

I know you said you had it with the brand but here is a repost of mine from 8 months ago anyway:

FWIW after following this thread and others regarding the quality of the GE Profile Induction Range I played it safe and instead ordered the GE Cafe Induction range over 3 years ago. It's been rock solid. Also used oven self clean function many times. There is a discussion group about that model on Houzz. Got it from Costco which included a 4 year warranty, which I've had no need to use it.

Well, replaced my induction board July 2020. Been fine for a little over a year, but now my big 3700W burner is turning off randomly. When I had the GE tech out, he did say I needed both, but that I could try the board first and do the burner later, so I guess it's time.

However, I am getting no error code & the rest of the stove is working fine. I can just turn it back on via controls and it will work after a few tries. Is there a way to test the burner itself? FYI burner part number was WB30x21488 but now looks like has been replaced by WB30X38486, so maybe they fixed or improved it.

I bought my GE Cafe induction double oven slide in stove in summer of 2019 but did not install it till December of 2019 due to a full renovation of the condo. We used it for a month and then left to travel south and didn't return till July 2020 due to Pandemic. We used the range for three months and went away again and again did not come back again for about 7 months, now we returned in summer of 2021, due to rising cases with COVID. We used the stove for a couple months and we started to see the problem of it turning off itself after 10 seconds. We only used the stove range in total maybe no more than 9 months, even though we bought it in 2019. I am quite devastated of this is happening as the stove was cost over $4300 in 2019. I am turning the stove on and off and it would eventually come on. The warranty is no longer valid so I will have to call a repairman for this. Quite disappointed of a stove that cost so much would have a problem after using it for 9 months. I would not recommend the GE to anyone.

My PHS920SF1SS (October 2013) is malfunctioning again. Last April the high-limit switch was replaced, which solved the problem. Now the induction elements randomly shut themselves off, even without the oven in use. This morning, the front left element shut itself off after about 10 seconds. I rebooted the range by cycling power at the circuit breaker and the problem occurred again, but this time we got an FA92 error code, which we had never seen before. According to the GE service manual for the PHS925 (which is not my model) FA9x means coil temperature sensor break and the elements are numbered 0:Left Front, 1:Left Rear, 2:Right Front, 3:Right Rear. So FA92 is indicting the Right Front element, which we were not even using.

After clearing the code, I tried each element and Left Front, Left Rear and Right Rear all shut down after about 10-15 seconds. Ironically, the only element that stayed on was Right Front!!! After I saw Right Front working, I tried Left Front and it also stayed on.

I am an electrical engineer and I don't normally buy extended warranties, however when I bought this range, the dealer offered me 10 years coverage for $269.99 and I took it, since I figured any part I would need to replace would cost more than that if I did it myself. This will be the second service call for free under that warranty.

Last time it took three GE technician visits with many expensive parts replaced before they finally listened to me and changed the high-limit switch. Now the dealer is using a 3rd party GE Authorized repair service. Let's see how many visits and new parts it will take this time!

Mine, PHS920SFSS (2015) is starting to act up as well. Several times it did not recognize the pot/pan (cast iron) and needed a power recycle to function again. Not sure how much longer it will last. Such a shame for an otherwise excellent product. This is after paying a handsome sum to replace several boards just out of the one-year warranty.

Update from 2 weeks ago. The tech wanted to replace the entire generator module and the induction elements, but the generator module is out of stock, so the appliance dealer offered me a full credit of what I paid for the range towards the purchase of a new one. I will be taking delivery on Friday of a brand new PHS930YPFS for $180 + tax out of pocket.

Lucky you to get that offer. I guess they figure it will be cheaper for them to replace a whole unit for you than to keep replacing parts in the 10 years time. Good luck to you with the new stove.

@HU-548692369, good for you. With the frequency that mine acts up (shut off after about 5-10s) I am done with GE and am looking into a different one. Guess I'll bite and buy the extended warranty this time.

FWIW - Repair completed successfully today. My model is PHB920SF1SS, purchased new in January 2014. We bought an extended warranty that I believe was for 5 or 6 years, and we did have one major repair done during the warranty period. I think it was the main control board but that was maybe in 2018, and since then the warranty has expired. Recently we got code FA92, and what seems to trigger it is using some combination of burners and the oven for an extended time period....like for Thanksgiving or Easter...when you can least afford to have the thing fail.

Did a ton of research online. I don't recall the specifics, but FA92 is some kind of sensor for burner #2 (front left, I believe). My theory was that it was heat related and probably electronics overheating. Found a thread saying the centrifugal fan that cools the circuitry is known to quit working. With an expired warranty and a $150 service call telling us we needed to buy another warranty or replace the stove, I decided it was worth the risk of replacing just the centrifugal fan. Part cost about $115. I undertook the repair today, and afterwards used all the stovetop hobs for about an hour and nothing quit.

Process: With the unit unplugged or the breaker off....using a hand nut driver, remove the two hex screws under the leading edge of the stove top; lift straight up in back (it slots down into a sort of hinge), pull forward a bit. You can tilt it a little but not much because of all the wires attached. There are several plugs and wires to disconnect. The RF and RR hobs have same-colored wiring so I labeled those before disconnecting. Also used a nut driver to take off a grounding connection to the range top. Moved the range top into another room, flipped upside down on top of a towel on a flat surface.

You need to separate the electronics from the glass cooktop to access the screws that attach the centrifugal fan. This involves removing six stainless screws on the perimeter, plus two locknuts on top of rubber bushings front and back. The centrifugal fan also has two screws that hold a gasket type thing on top of it. When you separate the electronics, flip it over and find three screws that correspond with the centrifugal fan. They are longer than other screws on this board. Once out, the fan will release....except the plug end disappears into the electronics section. I did not want to mess with this part, so I decided to simply cut the wires to the old fan, cut the cord end off the new fan, and use butt connectors to join the red and black 18ga wires. Reverse procedure to re-install. Going slow, this took about 2 hours. But, if the repair holds, maybe I can get another few years out of this thing before I buy a brand with more reliability.

@rdorn98103 was the fan totally dead or failing intermittently? Can you share a part #? My PHS920SF2SS is still turning off (all burners, I thought it was just the 3700W) and it seems like it mostly happens after we have multiple things going. So you're right in the middle of cooking dinner with multiple burners and you realize "how long has it all been turned off, including my oven timer?"

GE Model: PHS930SL3SS - Induction unit not working

After several dead end calls with GE customer service about this same issue, they had a tech come out and diagnose that I needed an entirely new processing board. But GE would only pay for the board (over $500) and not the installation. The snooty tech told me it would be minimum 3 hours and a service charge - minimum of $300. They shipped the part to my house, so I did the installation myself. Not for everyone, but I got it done. However when I fired it up the left burners didn't work, but the right did work AND I could hear the fan go on when the right burners go on. So I think the cooling fan not firing up is related to the shutdown described by many people. When I shut off the breaker to cycle the power, then all the burners work and the fan comes on. We'll see how long this lasts. I do agree that overheating could be related due to the Thanksgiving phenomenon where all burners are firing. Bottom line for me is that GE did nothing to support me with repairing a know issue, and customer service and their tech were useless.

They lost me as a customer and investor.

@John Wisniewski These GE inductions are Lemons and I would not buy another. I went through so many boards and techs who were clueless that "luckily" I had a collection of boards to replace with when I did actually have a Board problem later. They let you keep all the parts whether they work or not. This has "helped" over the years. Ours has been limping along with various issues over the years that I have managed to figure out how to fix.

One thing I won't be doing, is if I can't fix it, it will go to the curb, I'm not dropping a dime to a service tech for anything. Mine is off warranty. I don't know what induction I would buy, but it won't say GE on it. When it works, it's awesome.

Really sucks that this keeps happening...

DON'T USE THE SELF CLEANING!

Cafe Induction CCHS985SEL SSburst into flames after 3.5 years. GE promise to repiar to working order evaporated when tech found it irreparable. GE then offered 50% of original purchase but to replace any range these days is 100% costlier. Yep GE shame bigtime

BUY AN LG INDUCTION.

I had to dump mine after 18months of using. Will never buy another GE appliance. I bought (and fingers crossed) an LG induction and have been very happy with it for 3 years so far. I bought mine from Best Buy and sprung for maintenance insurance just incase. The oven out performs the GE too.

I have a GE induction since 2016 and now I cannot not use touch buttons for the oven. When I touch some buttons, it does t do anything. So I replaced the main board and still nothing. Anyone else have this problem? I have the PHS920SF2SS

@Clara,

There are two parts main parts involved in the touch panel. Which did you replace?

WB27X21393 which is a board that sits beneath the outer glass panel and has the numeric display and other LED lights for the oven buttons in the center, and operates the various range components as a whole.

WB27X25771 is the entire glass panel which includes two more attached electronic boards for the cooktop controls at the left and right sides. This glass panel includes some circuitry and a ribbon connector for the oven controls in the center, per this photo. Perhaps it's the problem if it isn't the part you already replaced.

I bought the board beneath the outer glass

its the news of the day--GE induction range died--our pchb920sj1ss purchased in 2016 died in oct 2020--under warranty had the generator assy replaced--died again july 12-2022---was told by local appliance repair that in need new gen board--n/a till this fall--in the end it needs a new gen assy $834.20--not gonna happen--if yours acts up-dig down to the gen and filter boards--remove and flip over-our was burned on one gen and the filter board--as usuall GE looked the other way..

Well, mine was turning off randomly this year with no error code. So I replaced the centrifugal fan that @rdorn98103 mentioned. Worked for 6 months or so and got us through Thanksgiving, but the last week or so (Christmas! and new years), it has been resetting with a FA92 error each time. So I just ordered a new 3700W burner and hopefully that will fix it. This is the 3rd strike (board, fan, burner) and I don't think I'm going to fix it again after this, or buy another GE stove again.

@Les Garten GE Profile PHS925ST1SS Technical Service Manual

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/765132/Ge-Profile-Phs925st1ss.html?page=7#manual

Well, sounds like I'm suffering from the same situation as everyone else. My GE Profile induction slide in unit isn't quite 5 years old, and was an expensive purchase when we did our kitchen renovation. And now it has started to randomly turn off the oven - it heats to 258 degrees, shuts off, I restart it, and so it goes till I finally get it to 350 degrees (after 6 - 8 tries, with it turning off in between each try and often having to wait 5 minutes or more for it to finally come back on in between tries). Once it's up to temperature, it stays on till I turn it off, but if the oven randomly turns off, so do the burners - ALL OF THEM....I have been in contact with GE since April. I have had my own tech come and inspect the unit 3 times - he has replaced the module at the front panel of the stove where the knobs are. When he replaced that, we figured the unit was going to work! NO LUCK!!! He came back and investigated further - we don't get any error codes showing up on the screen of the unit, but he was able to see that there were numerous codes showing up - 45 of them to be exact. I contacted GE back in April to ask what they could do.....6 months later and I am livid...I was just offered another module (the one that goes under the burners and controls the whole stove) at 60% off.....so another $625 for JUST THE UNIT, not including the installation. and the comment from GE? "Well who knows if it will work - we can't guarantee that". really????? I've already spent $750 on the first module with my tech coming to install it. Now GE will only offer the second module to me at 60% off???? Wow. Very disappointing. I just told GE that I also just bought a brand new GE washer and dryer, and that hopefully I'm not going to run into the same problem - they don't care...how nice. Very VERY disappointing.

The techs that come to work on them know absolutely nothing about fixing them. They replace a bunch of boards, some multiple times and my problemwas a power supply at the back of the unit. Mine is still kinda working, But this has been the worst product I have ever purchased.

Maureen, hopefully the board will fix it. Are the codes he pulled FA9x? These are probably a burner. I was getting FA96, I think. The GE tech when I came out told me I needed an induction board and maybe the big 3700W burner. I bought these online and did it myself. First the board. Seemed to fix things for a while but then it would shut off again. I tried replacing the internal fan based on someone here's experience, that didn't do anything but was only $40. In January I replaced the 3700W burner and have had zero problems in 9 months with it turning off or needing to be reset.

Now I do have a problem with the Timer button being hard to press intermittently, but I think that's a matter of cleaning the contacts on the plug for the front panel.

my tech got these codes:

Code 490 showed up 14 times
Code 500 showed up 14 times
Code 683 showed up 19 times

his report stated:

All communication problems between the user interfaces and the induction board. Diagnostics shows that induction now should be replaced. All connections checked fine at this time.

so i guess i dont have much choice unless i want to replace the stove completely 🙄🙄🙄

Maureen, when did you buy the stove?

4 years ago

I suggest that for the pile of complexity known as an induction cooktop or induction range (only the cooktop is induction), that the price of the unit be considered a rental cost. Factory warranty is typically for only one year without a warranty extension. With a warranty extension divide by 5 for a yearly rental cost when you have a 5-year warranty, and by larger values if the warranty can be extended further (warranty costs add to purchase price). My Frigidaire cooktop is running OK at 8 years with warranty extensions so my yearly "rental" has dropped to under $250 (guessing).

So Maxim 1 is to buy warranty extensions for pricey, reliability-challenged appliances, and if such an appliance fails after the warranty ends just replace it.

Maxim 2 is that price analysis should be combined with an evaluation of warranty costs (should be inversely proportional to reliability) to choose a unit where the imputed yearly rental is affordable.

Kaseki, I don't agree with that at all. A "Major" appliance shouldn't be a pile of crap. I'm almost 70, not my first purchase, but most definitely the worst product I have ever bought in my life. Puts a bad taste of GE in my mouth.

@clara @dadoes did you ever figure out which board needs to be replaced for intermittent buttons? is it the larger glass panel ( WB27X25771 ) with 2 boards attached or the single board below that ( WB27X21393)?

I just got a Pacemaker yesterday. It says I have to keep 2' away from the Induction coils.

You know, so I got that goin' for me now...

Funny @les ... not helpful, but funny.