I would replace the repairman. If he isn't sure what's wrong it might be any thing. Get a secound opinion,preferably by a competent repairman.

Actually he seemed quite competent to me. Everything he told me lined up with what I had already researched. F14 could indicate a lose wire (which there wasn't) or a failure in one of two boards. All the trouble shooting I did online indicated, to replace the main control board (which was his recommendation) but in some cases you may also need to replace the second board. He never even mentioned the second board until I asked what would happen if we went ahead with the repair and it still didn't work (knowing that in some cases the second board replacement was required) and then he mentioned the second board. So he confirmed what I suspected but couldn't verify because I didn't have the correct type of screw head to remove the panel.

He couldn't remove the panel to verify the 2nd board? HE's the repairman, HE should have had the appropriate screw head. Good grief!!!

"HE's the repairman, HE should have had the appropriate screw head. Good grief!!!"

It sound's on par for a repairman that replace's one part at a time until it's fixed. Any time a repairman tell's you"it might be something minor,something major or it might be a combination of both"it's time to cut your lose and find a new repairman. Installing parts is easy,knowing which to replace separate's professionals from hacks.

I was able to replace mine under warranty, but only after the repair man took it apart and could not figure out how to put it back together. I would get a new range because there must have been a problem with the old range since the two board replacements I had could not fix the problem. The new one is working fine, but who knows if it will give me an error message soon? I would have gotten a different brand, but my kitchen counter tops were only 2 years old and I did not want the installers to be the ones cutting my Caesar stone.

I think you guys are confusing what I said. I did research, and came to the conclusion based on the error code and others experiences that it was one of two boards. The things I read on the internet said that the main board was usually the culprit but sometimes in the process of replacing the main board, the second board would act up and also need replacing. I don't have the tool to open the back of the oven. The repairman opened the back checked it out and gave me the price on the main board component. I questioned what were happen if that didn't fix the problem. I didn't want to fork out the money for the main board and then mid repair not have the option to back out if it required more expensive parts to complete the job. I never said the repairman couldn't open the back and I never said the repairman even implied there was a problem with the second board, that was me just being very cautious about what I was getting into.

I don't know the details on this range of question but sometimes there's no diagnostic to pinpoint a problem to a particular board. The procedure may be to replace one suspect board, then replace another if the problem isn't resolved. In some cases the stated procedure is to swap the first original board back in if replacing the second board fixed the problem, to check if the first board isn't bad. Sometimes both boards are bad.

I would assume both boards need replacement. Question is how much that costs and will the range work well again vs cost of new range. Seems straightforward.

In theory, a 6 y.o. range should still be a toddler. But with induction I expect the technology and fine tuning has advanced in the last six years as induction has gained a foothold.

Would check around the see ratings on the new ranges, try to find one that would suit, and post the model number and ask if any users have it and what they think.

It's always a conundrum replacing the devil you know with the one you don't know.

Alternately, look at another brand like Bosch?

What tool and how much is it. What does the board cost? I replaced a board on another brand. It's sometimes the best coarse tp diy.

Most people don't replace their cars because the alternator or starter goes bad or it needs a set of tires. They get it fixed.

Good point to talk about relative values. However, it seems to me that a failed controller board or boards (apparently costing $800 and maybe $1400 to have replaced) is more akin to having a blown motor in a car, or maybe major damage from hitting a deer where your insurance company wants to total the vehicle. Those are much bigger financial hits, ones that as Lily'smom says, were you get to "the thought process when deciding to replace a car."

Now if we were talking about, say, a Miele induction range priced at $7k ($7500 with the 5 year warranty), it makes arguable economic sense to go ahead with an $800 or even a $1400 repair. A six year old Miele range, with a $1500 repair, might very well be worth around $3000 to $4000.

For a six year-old Elux, though, it is a good deal less clear, which is where cjzimmer seems to be asking for help.

Here's my 2 cents on the questions asked.

Sounds to me like the stove is the EW30IS65 slide-in model. At least, that was the only induction range that I recall Elux selling as a two-oven induction range back in 2011. (IIRC, it had the regular oven and the "baking drawer" in place of a warming drawer and that was how Elux could call it a "two oven" stove.)

If memory serves, the stove was priced at around $3200 back in 2011. What's it worth now? Maybe $1600? Maybe a lot less. Seems to me that we had a posting here a couple of years ago from somebody who picked up one from Craig's list for about $1000.

On the other hand, if you were going to buy the current version Elux slide-in (EW30IS80), the asking price is usually $3200 but sometimes turns up on sale at around $2900. Compared to that price, an $800 or even $1400 repair looks more economically rational.

Trouble is that this is the point where we run into a lot of uncertainty. As Lily'smom points out, maybe other components will start failing. Then again, maybe they will not. Conversely, do I want to spend $2900 on a new stove that also might have a major failure in another six years? Or, to borrow Kaseki's formulation -- would you be willing to pay $450 per year to lease a stove and then go lease a new one when it dies?

Another alternative would be a less expensive replacement range. Two examples that come to mind are the Elux freestanding that Lily'smom is getting (also recently purchased, I believe by 3katz4me). Seems to run around $1800. That, of course, is a frestanding range and might not be to cjzimmer's liking. So, for a slide-in, there also is the Frigidaire induction slide-in range (FGIS3065). Made (afaik) in the same factory which produces the Electrolux ranges. The Frigidaire slide-in often seems to be sale priced at under $1500. Otherwise, the next least expensive slide-in induction models are the GE (PHS920) and the two Samsung slide-in induction ranges, all seemingly priced around $2200 to $2500.

Will these ranges --- or the $3+k Bosch slide-in (HIIP054U, soon to be replaced by the HIIP055u), the $3k JennAir/Kittchenaid cloned slide-ins, and the new LG induction slide-in --- be more reliable, longer lived than the Elux/Frigidaire products? No way to know.

We know that some of them will fail early (plenty of online complaints about that, too). But what percentages? Impossible for us to say because there is (as yet) no readily available -- available to us, that is --- long term statistical data.

So, "in your shoes," my inclination would be to go with a less expensive model from a reputable retailer and read the extended warranty terms very carefully.

"Most people don't replace their cars because the alternator or starter goes bad or it needs a set of tires. They get it fixed."

True, but the alternator or starter isn't usually half the cost of outright replacing it either.

My husband and I have gone round and round on this. The part to open the back is simply a square head screwdriver. I'm sure I could acquire it at Home Depot but since I've never had a need for one before wasn't going to rush out and buy it just to look at the back of the range. Going on the worst case assumption that both boards will need to be replaced I estimated the absolute cheapest I could buy both boards for was about $850 but that leaves me who really knows nothing about electronics to do it myself. I'm sure with enough youtubes I could figure it out but I'm a homeschooling mom of 6 and frankly it would probably be a couple of days of lost classes for the kids at a minimum that it would take me to do this not to mention cooking for a large family without an oven is kind of a pain. Extrapolating the price on the second board I would guess that to have the repair guy do it the total would be around $1100.

So after considering the numbers, we ended up going out shopping. I considered the Electrolux again because I have been happy with it but they downgraded it from the model I have and all the features I cared about were removed (and they kept things like slow cooking that I care nothing about). At that point I felt like the Electrolux and GE were pretty much equivalent in specs but the GE was almost $100 cheaper and of course I'm a little more leery with the Electrolux brand. Choices came down between the GE (freestanding- great burner layout but single oven) and the KA Double oven (love the double oven but not real thrilled with the large burner in the back and the remaining 3 are smaller than what I've currently got). Both were on a very good deal with prices lower than anything I've seen on the internet through today (last day of Presidents' Day Sale). I've bought 3 other appliances from this sales guy, he's very good at trying to get me the best deal possible.

Anyways I was all set to buy the GE and then he pointed out how there was no lip. Which became the deal breaker because I'm a messy cook and have on many occasions nearly filled the range top with a boil over because I got distracted by the kids. My husband pointed out that I would most likely be pulling out the range every time I have a boil over because it will run down not only the front but the sides between the cabinet. So I've got the KA ordered but they said it will be about 10 days to come in. He said if I change my mind before then, he can change the order so I do have a few days to think about this.

We did get the extended warranty, the nice part about this place is that the 5 year warranty policy comes with a 10 year parts clause. So if we have a repeat problem with an expensive board at least that part would be covered. And in 10 years I wouldn't feel bad about buying another range.

Sorry I don't know if there is a way to actually quote someone on this site or not.

"Sounds to me like the stove is the EW30IS65 slide-in model. At least, that was the only induction range that I recall Elux selling as a two-oven induction range back in 2011. (IIRC, it had the regular oven and the "baking drawer" in place of a warming drawer and that was how Elux could call it a "two oven" stove.)"

Close but back in 2011 they did have the freestanding version with 2 ovens (the lower one is the baking drawer - somewhat useful but not used that much because it's not all that great). Cost at the time was $2429.97 +tax. They've stripped the current freestanding of a lot of features (the baking drawer, temp probe, PERFECT TURKEY, bread proofing were the ones I specifically noticed).

I really have no preference between freestanding and slide-in although the freestanding are generally priced more to my liking. But none of them really seemed to have everything I wanted. After my current electrolux, I'm rather skeptical about those baking drawers on the bottom of the oven actually being useful to me for much more than roasting veggies and so I'm not sure I can count on the slide-ins having two useful ovens. And if the ovens aren't useful than the slide-in becomes a much more expensive option to get some nice to have but I can live without features.

Checking the model JWVideo referenced, four hits come up at SearsParts. Picking one at random, I find NINE boards in the unit ... variously for power supplies, user interface, induction control, and oven control.

Oven Control Board (user touch panel) P/N 318387122 $694.90
Power Control Board P/N 316535200 $54.30
Induction Power Control P/N 318347101 $456.08
Noise Filter Board P/N 318347000 $593.28
Oven Control Board and Clock P/N 316576610 $207.08
User Interface Control Board P/N 316576452 $121.38
Surface Element Transformer P/N 316435703 $52.99
Oven Relay Board P/N 316443916 $138.49
Electronic Variable Speed Board P/N 316519200 $64.59

Prices vary higher/lower at other sources.

That doesn't consider the four induction elements, the oven heating elements, range cooktop glass, cooling fans, door lock motor, etc.

These induction ranges are highly complex, similar to those expensive foreign cars about which the recommendation often is "don't buy it if you can't afford the maintenance and repairs." I've entertained the thought of getting an induction range at some point ... but now I think not! :-)

We did briefly consider the Breville when I was learning towards the GE but reality is my kitchen is pretty small for what gets moved through it in a day. I have to keep most of my countertop appliances in a closet in the hallway if I want to have any working surfaces. Closet is pretty full with the toaster, blender, crockpot, Instant Pot, popcorn maker, grain mill and Bosch universal mixer (in additional to the 50 pounds bags of oats, steel cut oats, rice and wheat berries that sit on the floor and the plethora of gallon jars of dried fruit that get stored there). Yes I'm a kitchen gadget junkie and you are absolutely correct about feeding my small army. So for us we felt like space needed to accommodate it probably wasn't super useful for the small quantities it could cook at one time.

I wasn't crazy about the 10 steps burners either but the GE only had 11 so not much difference there. I don't often use the intermediate steps unless I'm canning and want to slowly drop the roiling boil but I keep telling myself I canned just fine on my old coil stove and that had only 10 so this should be fine (it makes me feel somewhat better about the idea although we will have to see how I feel in reality).

I've never used a griddle. I have a large electric frying pan that I'm guessing is similar size. I suppose if it dies I may look into a griddle but this was my grandmother's frying pan and it's still going strong (and made when things were built to last, it's at least 30-40 years old) so not going to worry about it till I have to.

By biggest concerns with KA are the burner layout and reliability/durability. It's going to get a big workload here and I'm hoping it will hold up. We bought the warranty but still being without an oven or worse without the burners is a serious pain in producing the quantities of food we go through here.

The newest GE induction range has only 11 settings? I had not noticed that change but, by golly, the newest version --- PHB920SJSS --- has indeed been reduced to that. Bummer.

OTOH, those old countertop electric frypans make great griddles! Keep it going as long as you can. IMO, a great thing to have when your stove goes out. The only thing comparable that I've seen these days is a Broil King unit which costs nearly as much as that Demeyere plancha.

I had the same issue with a similar Electrolux where the repair technician isn't sure which parts need replacing and would need to do trial and error with different parts. The cheapest option is about $400 (circuit board installation) and the worst option (new touch panel) was going to be over $1500,

E14 and E15 codes are too vague. They need to be able to hook up a device like you can to the OBDII port in a car that gives a more specific diagnosis of the problem.

I decided to not throw any more money into it besides the $70 trip charge and decided to shop for a replacement instead.

Lower end induction ranges are available for less than $1000 minus rebates.