Do you want to see pix of CRACKED NEOLITH?
Poppy Potter
6 years ago
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Shannon Dyson
4 years agoAvatarWalt
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
1940's NZ kitchen - small, awkward-ish layout.
Comments (121)I would suggest you take out the cabinet that is to the right of the stove and use it elsewhere in the house -- perhaps in the bathroom or dining room with a hutch above it. Then, I would suggest you have someone install a lazy susan cabinet in the corner between the sink counter and the stove, meaning you would move the stove down a bit and have a small cabinet/counter top to the right of the stove. I would suggest you have the cabinets refinished in white and then paint the walls a pastel you like. If you would prefer white walls, then add white-painted crown molding and paint the ceiling a light neutral blue, such as Sherwin Williams Niagara Falls Blue. Then, I would suggest you choose a favorite accent color and use this sparingly in accessories like towels, pot holders, small vases or floral arrangements, and a valence above the triple windows. For a genuine 1940s look, you might have white ceramic square tiles with a rectangular red border installed as a back splash behind and above the stove. If you are replacing counter tops, I would suggest a light color such as white with a beige or light grey vein or striation for some sort of pattern. You might be able to find the same color and design in floor tile OR opt for a wood floor as another poster suggested....See MoreCountertop conundrums
Comments (36)~$400 including expedited shipping. My GC just had his regular countertop guy do them, which wasn't great.... he had trouble making clean cuts. If I were going to do it again I would have pressed for someone with expertise to cut them. You can see in the image that the facing is not made of the stone peak, because too much was broken during the cutting to make the mitered edge. I'm a little bummed, but mostly pleased with the surface (which is the important part) thus far....See MoreTILES CAN I "HONE" AN INDOOR TILE FOR OUTDOOR USE ONCE COATED ?
Comments (10)Excuse my duh-ness but i'm having difficulty trying to follow whats going on here. Are these two photos an exact replica of your house and pool ? If not a hasty sketch with dimensions could help a lot. By kitchen wall do you mean the wall behind the bar ? And where is the pool wall ? Are you considering the covered area as being "inside" ? Sorry for all those questions lol Sometimes when you have a design problem you need to turn it inside out or on it's head. If you can't beat it maybe embrace it by making a feature of it : i.e. contrast by having the lightest colored pool surround and a great blue or tile inside and under the overhang, something that will echo the water color ? If you have a great covered area as in photo you'll most likely be spending a lot of time there and it could be soothing to be able to sometimes retire into a darker inside. In my book, 10M isn't small and also contrasting two floor colors doesn't necessarily make a space seem smaller and confined and may in fact even open it up. Could it be that you've thought yourself into a box here ? Sometimes one needs to give it all a good shake up and see how it resettles....See MoreTimber benchtop help!
Comments (2)Hi Jess, Unfortunately it probably wont stop doing this, as the timber join is butted together that join will always move given the nature of timber. A solution but might not be a cost effective solution would be to router the underneath of the join out with timber and glue in some more timber to help hold the join (a patch kinda thing) this will make the join stronger (assuming this hasn't already been done) Then we only recommend either a oil or wax finish if you want it to be left with a natural look or we apply a clear epoxy resin finish, this is a very good product (about 2-3 mm thick) and it lets the timber move a little and the product moves with the timber rather than crack like the lacquer seems to do. We pretty much always have the same result with kitchen benches when it comes to the sink area and joins. The main cause I see happening is that the timber moves (and it will never stop moving) and then if the lacquer is not flexible it will split open causing a spot for moisture to get in and under the lacquer making it go all funky like that A easier option would be to sand the tops and apply a oil and keep maintaining it, then you will never get the funky cloudy stuff happening, but you will need to do some research on what product are best and available where you are Good luck :-)...See Morelucky998877
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