FLOORING
Logs & Twigs flooring - $40 Americana at its finest, this rustic flooring from Chicago-based Birger Juell is almost like a modern day tribute to the log cabin. Each of these "tiles" is a cross-section from the leftover ends of a tree trunk or branch. Although each round is sanded and then oiled for protection, the natural wearing of the wood still allows for occasional minor splits and cracks, which only adds to the floor's personality.
It can be tricky to use two kinds of wood flooring in the same house. If they are too similar in grain and color, it can look like an unsuccessful attempt to match them. This home shows a beautiful use of two kinds of wood flooring. They work together beautifully for a few reasons: 1. They are strikingly different in color, yet the lighter flooring has a variety of colors pulling in some of the deep color of the darker wood flooring. 2. They are on different levels, so there is a clear place to stop one and start the other. 3. They define different areas of the home.
This designer made a similar decision but reversed the materials, with wood chosen as the walkway and stone leading off into the adjoining rooms. I like that the direction of the wood runs across the hall so it doesn't look like a bowling alley. I also like that the direction of the wood and the stone tiles are perpendicular to each other.
Historically, pine was an inexpensive flooring material, and the world is full of old factories and barns with pine floors. These antique, reclaimed pine floors are abundant, available for use in homes and not as expensive as you might think. Pine pros: The original character floor Cons: Tends to be relatively soft when compared to other woods, tends to dent under heavy furniture. Cost: $5-$20 per square foot Suggested uses: Living areas, hallways, entryways and kitchens
There's a place for other pine floors. too. This photo shows an Eastern white-pine floor with a dark stain on it. It's also significantly wider than a heart-pine plank can be. Other varieties of pine hold stain colors exceptionally well and almost always cost less than heart-pine floors.
When choosing a wood, consider cabinets, trim work and door casings to make sure the wood won’t clash with other design elements. And coordinate with the colors of the walls and the amount of natural light. This will affect color choice. If you have a lot of windows and skylights, then you probably have enough light to balance out really dark floors. If you have a dark house already, a lighter floor choice will help brighten things
PREP FOR NEW WOOD FLOORS. Plywood. This is probably the most common subfloor and allows for the most versatility with hardwood floors. You can nail solid wood on top or use engineered wood. Particleboard. This material was commonly used under carpet in homes built in the 1970s. It’s basically a cheaper version of plywood. For hardwood floors, you'll need to replace the particleboard with plywood. Then you can add engineered or solid wood.
Alternatively, if you don’t want to go to the hassle and expense of refinishing the floors, consider having them rescreened. In this process a machine roughs up the existing polyurethane, then the floor is buffed and a new coat of polyurethane is applied. This is not to be confused with “sandless” hardwood floor refinishing, a less effective process that simply cleans the existing floor.
Painted wood floors make a strong style statement and are a clever way to disguise wood flooring in less than perfect shape. To clean them, sweep, vacuum or dust-mop regularly. Avoid scratching or damaging the painted surface by staying away from abrasive cleansers and opting for a simple soap and water solution for damp mopping. Experts suggest drying the surface immediately by hand to avoid streaking and unnecessary moisture.
Engineered wood flooring is created with a thin veneer of hardwood fused atop a plywood base. The material is stronger and more durable than regular hardwoods, and as a result has become a popular choice. The cleaning procedure for this type of wood is the same as for hardwood floors with urethane finishes. Keep clean on a daily basis by sweeping and vacuuming and use a slightly damp mop as needed.
Unfinished or Waxed Floors Unfinished or waxed floors, like those in older and historic homes, as well as floors in which the protective seal has worn away, should never be treated with water or liquid cleansers, which may penetrate, stain or warp the wood. Instead, according to cleaning experts, sweeping with a soft-bristled broom and vacuuming should be done as the primary line of defense. The NWFA says to step away from the mop: Never damp-mop a waxed floor. Beyond basic care, buffing and waxing the floors once or twice a year should maintain the shine.
Another technique: After the floor has been swept or vacuumed, put your cleaning solution of choice in a spray bottle and mist the floor, then use a dry microfiber mop or cloth and mop in direction of the wood grain. It’s important to note that just because a floor is clean doesn’t necessarily mean it will be shiny. If the floor has lost its luster, it may be time to have it refinished professionally. Whatever you do, don’t wax a polyurethaned finish.
Sweeping. The American Hardwood Information Center says choosing a broom with “exploded tips,” also known as synthetic fiber ends, is step one. Damp mopping. Damp mopping should be done with a simple solution of pH-neutral soap (like dishwashing soap) and water; or one capful of a mild cleanser such as Murphy Oil Soap in a bucket of water; or a solution using products specially formulated for wood floors, such as Eco Mist Colloid W, Dr. Bonner’s or Method. In conscientious cleaning circles, controversy swirls around whether to use a mixture of vinegar and water for damp-mopping wood floors. Ultimately, everyone has to do what works best; however, within the past 10 years this method has lost favor, and popular belief now holds that the solution causes floors to dull more quickly and is not as effective as simple soap and water. To begin mopping, dampen the mop in the prepared solution, wring it out completely, and mop in the direction of the wood grain. Repeat as necessary. As the water in the bucket becomes dirty, dump it out and refill. Many experts (including Martha Stewart) believe scrubbing wood floors with a damp cloth by hand is the ultimate cleaning strategy — unless abu...
Cleaning floors with contemporary polyurethane wood finishes (for floors installed after 1970) starts with vacuuming, sweeping or dust-mopping the surface. Vacuuming. Vacuum wood floors daily, or at least once a week with a vacuum fitted with an attachment for wood floors. For regular machines, the American Hardwood Information Center advises turning off interior rotating brushes or beater bars if possible. Regular vacuuming helps remove dust and dirt particles that play a leading role in scratching and dulling the surface of the floor.
Preventing Dirty Wood Floors Not wearing shoes in the house is one of the best ways to significantly reduce dirt, scuffs and daily wear and tear, and lessen cleaning time. The National Wood Floor Association, or NWFA, is more specific and warns against walking on wood floors with cleats, sports shoes and high heels. It also offers this cautionary example: A 125-pound woman walking in high heels has an impact of 2,000 pounds per square inch. Furthermore, an exposed heel nail can exert up to 8,000 pounds of force per square inch.
Surface finishes, often referred to as urethanes or polyurethanes, are among the most popular treatments today and are usually applied to hardwood floors after installation to protect them and make them more durable and water resistant. These finishes create a protective barrier. There are four types of surface finishes, according to the American Hardwood Information Center: water based, oil based, acid cured and moisture cured. Homes built before 1970, including historic residences, may have original wood floors that were sealed with varnish, wax or shellac. These require a different approach to cleaning. The American Hardwood Information Center says these types of finishes work by penetrating the wood to color the planks and form a protective shield. Using a wax coating after staining provides a barrier against wear and tear and gives the floor a beautiful low-gloss satin sheen. The classic look requires a little extra TLC, however, since water-based products and mopping can damage the finish.
PINE FLOORS SURFACE NAILED - I WANT THIS FOR MY KITCHEN AND HALL BATH!
Q