DIY Project: Rattan Cabinet Makeover
Here's how to revamp that classic piece of Australian furniture, the rattan cabinet
If you’ve ever wanted to learn how to make over a dated basket cabinet, to make it more contemporary while keeping its character and charm, this DIY project with easy before-and-after instructions is for you. See how easily it can be done!
There are many pieces of furniture that have handy DIYers stumped as to how to make them fit into a modern home. Here’s one garage classic that’s relatively easy to find, along with simple steps that can be undertaken to update it.
Before
While there’s nothing wrong with this cabinet of rattan boxes, there’s also nothing that catches the eye to make it interesting or give it a designer edge.
While there’s nothing wrong with this cabinet of rattan boxes, there’s also nothing that catches the eye to make it interesting or give it a designer edge.
After
So what’s the trick to updating a tired piece such as this? Here’s the formula I work by:
1. Change the one thing that’s the most dated: In this case, the rattan is beyond cleaning so I’m going to paint it, dust and all, and add a shiny finish.
2. Add an element to make it more modern: Attaching metal mid-century-style legs changes the footprint, making the cabinet appear more lightweight. I found these white hairpins online at Modcraft Australia.
3. Improve the experience: Sanding back the dark timber means I can finish it with a lovely oil to highlight the woodgrain, making it feel textured and hand finished.
So what’s the trick to updating a tired piece such as this? Here’s the formula I work by:
1. Change the one thing that’s the most dated: In this case, the rattan is beyond cleaning so I’m going to paint it, dust and all, and add a shiny finish.
2. Add an element to make it more modern: Attaching metal mid-century-style legs changes the footprint, making the cabinet appear more lightweight. I found these white hairpins online at Modcraft Australia.
3. Improve the experience: Sanding back the dark timber means I can finish it with a lovely oil to highlight the woodgrain, making it feel textured and hand finished.
Tools and materials
- electric sander and sanding block with 80, 180 and 240-grit abrasive paper
- painter’s tape
- white paint (any acrylic paint)
- paintbrush
- mini paint roller with two covers
- Monocel Clear Wood Varnish spray in Ultra Gloss
- Monocel Bench Top Oil
- clean cloth
- saw (handsaw or electric)
- claw hammer
- timber offcuts for the base
- screws to attach the timber and legs
- screwdriver or power drill
- hairpin legs
Step 1: Clean up the boxes
Remove the varnish from the timber section of the boxes by sanding with 80 then 180-grit abrasive paper, rounding over the edges slightly to remove any dents.
Tip: It doesn’t compromise the result if you don’t sand the inside timber before painting, so you can just wipe it down a little before getting started.
Remove the varnish from the timber section of the boxes by sanding with 80 then 180-grit abrasive paper, rounding over the edges slightly to remove any dents.
Tip: It doesn’t compromise the result if you don’t sand the inside timber before painting, so you can just wipe it down a little before getting started.
Step 2: Protect the raw timber
Use painter’s tape to mask around the tops of the boxes, leaving it on while painting and applying the varnish.
Use painter’s tape to mask around the tops of the boxes, leaving it on while painting and applying the varnish.
Step 3: Paint the boxes
Use a roller and brush to paint the boxes inside and out, rolling and brushing from different angles to saturate the rattan.
Tip: A light coat is enough to freshen up the insides, but apply two on the outside and an extra, third, coat on the fronts.
Use a roller and brush to paint the boxes inside and out, rolling and brushing from different angles to saturate the rattan.
Tip: A light coat is enough to freshen up the insides, but apply two on the outside and an extra, third, coat on the fronts.
Step 4: Add a glossy finish
Use the varnish spray to coat the outside of the boxes for a modern, shiny finish that complements the glossy hairpin legs.
Tip: Hold the can about 250 millimetres from the surface to lightly spray a couple of coats, leaving to dry between each coat.
Use the varnish spray to coat the outside of the boxes for a modern, shiny finish that complements the glossy hairpin legs.
Tip: Hold the can about 250 millimetres from the surface to lightly spray a couple of coats, leaving to dry between each coat.
Step 5: Finish the boxes
Use a cloth to apply the bench top oil around the tops of the boxes, applying liberally then wiping away any excess.
Use a cloth to apply the bench top oil around the tops of the boxes, applying liberally then wiping away any excess.
Step 6: Remove the legs
Mark out the best position to cut the legs, making sure the cabinet remains structurally solid. Cut the legs using an electric saw or handsaw, removing any remaining nails with a claw hammer.
Tip: I like using a little Japanese handsaw as it cuts with a pulling motion, which is a more natural cutting action and opposite to Western saws.
Mark out the best position to cut the legs, making sure the cabinet remains structurally solid. Cut the legs using an electric saw or handsaw, removing any remaining nails with a claw hammer.
Tip: I like using a little Japanese handsaw as it cuts with a pulling motion, which is a more natural cutting action and opposite to Western saws.
Step 7: Add a base for the legs
If your cabinet needs a base for the hairpin legs, add timber either side, making sure it fits in with the base of the cabinet.
Tip: Countersink the screws to ensure they’re below the surface, so the hairpin leg plates sit flush.
If your cabinet needs a base for the hairpin legs, add timber either side, making sure it fits in with the base of the cabinet.
Tip: Countersink the screws to ensure they’re below the surface, so the hairpin leg plates sit flush.
Step 8: Remove the old varnish
Clean up the frame by removing varnish using an electric sander if you have one. Begin with 80-grit abrasive paper, then tidy up with 180, and finish the top with 240.
Tip: Use a hand sanding block to remove dents and smooth over the edges and corners to round them over. This softens the profile of the cabinet and complements the more natural timber finish.
Clean up the frame by removing varnish using an electric sander if you have one. Begin with 80-grit abrasive paper, then tidy up with 180, and finish the top with 240.
Tip: Use a hand sanding block to remove dents and smooth over the edges and corners to round them over. This softens the profile of the cabinet and complements the more natural timber finish.
Step 9: Finish the frame
Apply the bench top oil using a roller, starting at the top, working around the edges and down the frame, covering all raw timber, even if it won’t be visible later. Then begin along the top to wipe away any excess and leave to dry thoroughly.
Apply the bench top oil using a roller, starting at the top, working around the edges and down the frame, covering all raw timber, even if it won’t be visible later. Then begin along the top to wipe away any excess and leave to dry thoroughly.
Step 10: Attach the legs
Turn the cabinet upside down on a clean mat to attach the hairpin legs, making sure the screws are short enough not to protrude through the base.
Tip: Position the legs so the back of the cabinet can be pushed against a wall.
Tell us
Are you interested in undertaking – or have you done – this revamp? We’d love hear from you. Please show us your project by uploading photos in the Comments below.
More
See more great DIY projects on Houzz
Turn the cabinet upside down on a clean mat to attach the hairpin legs, making sure the screws are short enough not to protrude through the base.
Tip: Position the legs so the back of the cabinet can be pushed against a wall.
Tell us
Are you interested in undertaking – or have you done – this revamp? We’d love hear from you. Please show us your project by uploading photos in the Comments below.
More
See more great DIY projects on Houzz