You probably don't need to turn over the soil--probably shouldn't on a steep slope. Talk with your local experts about the best way to convert your paddock. Maybe there are enough native wildflowers growing in there that you could manage by not mowing. Here in the US Midwest we often solarize the soil by covering it with clear plastic sealed all around--this takes a full summer. I have also killed grass by covering it with a tarp for a whole year. For paths I have just laid newspaper, wetted it, and then covered it with mulch. So, it really depends on how big the area is that you are considering. Do find an expert on your area.

This is why it's always good to have a pro to hold your hand for at least some of the way, (carefully chosen though, check out his/her finished projects, the more varied the styles, the better she/he will be able to understand and adapt to your desires), they can provide the invaluable visual supports too. When it's your own house it's notoriously difficult to see the possibilities, you have it under your eyes the whole time and the defaults shout at you and prevent you being able to see it objectively and envisage the possibilities. you're emotionally involved and emotions always have the upper hand on the brain, so you just keep turning round in circles. Something akin as to why a psy must never attempt therapy on a member of his own family, if you follow me :D As for the façade color, are you sure it needs changing that much ? Once those thick white frames have gone and the new windows nestling more discreetly, correctly positioned and re-proportioned, the aspect will change drastically and be far more streamlined and modern. (the devil is in the detail) I'd also strongly suggest that the wood facing just breaks off around the windows, no framing or finishings. Same thing for all the windows, the small ones too. Entrance : Same as for the windows, that outer frame shouldn't be touching the ceiling, you can try taking that off and painting the door another color before deciding to change it and once again the door could do with setting back a little. You could maybe take that doorstep out while you're at it. Also, i don't know what is happening to the right of the door but i see the concrete steps leaing up and feel it would be good to create another level to make it flush with the bottom of the door if structurally possible. This would tie it all in better and you probably wouldn't need any additional definition to your entrance. Anyhow, as i often quote, i'm a firm believer in " Less is More " , and vice versa of course ^^ Question #4 i can't answer as i haven't really understood the problem And #5 i don't think so, but once the other transformations have been taken care of i think you'll find it speaks for itself. Whatever, it's a very exciting project, the bones are great and i'd love to see photos of progression once you get started.

Hi, you have a number of questions I can answer a couple. As a starter, how do I find out 1) how much top soil I will need The amount of soil you need you can work out by multiplying the size of the area you are going to turf by the depth you want the soil. I think they put on around 2-3" of top soil on our lawn and levelled it off. The amount you need will also be determined by how bumpy your lawn is as they will need to remove lumps and bumps and then add the topsoil and level. I would advise getting a no obligation quote from a reputable landscaper. Ask them how much soil it involves. You can then make a decision whether you do it yourself or get in a pro. 2)Can I level out the top soil prior to building a deck - Or should I wait until the deck is finished before landscaping You should definitely build your deck prior to landscaping, it will also give you a better idea of what you are left to work with regards to lawn and garden beds. 3) for this amount of land should I be using the services of a bob cat person to level out the top soil I recently had my rear lawn re laid. It was a job we could have done ourselves as it is only tiny. It meant removing at least 4" off the top and then replacing with garden top soil (weed free) which was then levelled and packed down prior to ready lawn being laid over the top. The outcome is amazing but I don't have a photo yet. Word of warning, when working with garden soils, always wear a mask as my husband contracted Legionnaires disease from shoveling two trailer loads of soil into a retaining wall a few months ago. It is a very serious disease he was hospitalised for 8 days. They do have warnings on bags of compost etc at garden centres but never mentioned it to us at the landscape place where we purchased the soil. I noticed that our landscapers didn't take any precautions either. 4) do I need to destroy the lawn that is currently there before I add top soil on the lawn...Or can I buy soil and spread it on the existing lawn. You need to have the old lawn killed off as there will be weeds among it. I am anti sprays so we dug around 4" off the top of the garden, removing the weeds and roots, but there has been a few weeds coming up through the new grass now it is established so I would say for your large space to have it killed off in some way, then you need to remove the top layer and make it reasonably level for your top soil. With regards to ideas for your garden, you want to think about curb appeal, lead the eye up towards your entrance way. I know your entrance is off to the left so let your border follow the drive way on either side and up to your entrance. Make your entrance stand out with symmetrical pots I can't really advise a specific plant as I don't know your style. These are simply ideas to inspire you. You could fill the pots with white flowers that you change with the seasons or topiary to add some height. With regards to your fence boundary, it would be lovely to have some hedging although it can be high maintenance with trimming twice yearly. I am really into Ficus Tuffi (pleached) which is like topiary grown into each other forming a hedge. I am not familiar with what you can grow where you live but here are some border ideas. There are actually so many ideas, I could be looking for images all day for you, I suggest that with the great space you will have that you create a few garden rooms and focal points that lead the eye. I have added a link to my Landscaping ideas on Houzz. I am pretty sure they will inspire you. And although I am not a professional landscaper, I do have a passion for all design and when it comes to landscaping your garden you need to think about the style your house is inside. Also layering of planting is very important for example I have used box hedging then behind that a layer of star Jasmine and behind that an espaliered citrus tree which is against my studio. I don't have any photos yet but will try to get some up later this week. It is a brand new garden so you can see how a newly established garden looks like, not a five year old plus one as most of my saved images are. http://www.houzz.co.nz/ideabooks/63878109/thumbs/landscaping Layering.... Also think about height, plant some really lovely trees in areas you may want shade and something beautiful to look at. I love Magnolia Little Gem but there are some beautiful trees, I would use a mix of deciduous and evergreen so you get those beautiful autumn colours too. With regards to the front of your house you have some soil area in front of your fence. I would do some planting in front to soften the fence. Are you going to paint the fence? Plants will depend on the style you are looking to achieve in your garden, those above are more contemporary but you could go cottage but seems I cannot add any more photos so I suggest you look at my landscape Idea book (link above). Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you more :)

It looks great ! As the house is lighter and darker greys , I'd add a white gloss painted 'rail' around the top -- hard to tell appropriate sizes from the photos , but probably pine 150-200mm wide and 60mm tall . Easiest would be to simply nail it to the posts and top rails , but if you added some spacers ( cut some 100 x 50 pine into 100mm lengths , then stain them the same dark grey fence colour , nail to the posts and probably every 'halfway' too , it would really 'lift' it more ? IMO that would really tie it all in with the house , and look classy , for maybe $2k tops .