I love VLF porcelain but, there are things to consider. How high up the wall do you want to go? (Yes, you want to go below the counter level.) This product is a bear to work with because it's so thin. Just a minor bump against anything = it shatters. Installers must have special training in handling the product. Do your homework, get a referral to a fabricator from the slab wholesaler (just like you would for a slab of stone). Very pricey. Look at the equipment needed to properly handle just one sheet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zGZ3_XQIBE

Because you have different colored cabinets and all the angles/soffits in your ceiling I would not do 2 different materials for your back splash.

@chiflipper, ok thanks for that reality check. The slabs I was considering are 36"x72" so not as large as those ones and cost $300, but I can see that the installation cost is likely to be considerable. I really like the look of a solid slab backsplash and the porcelain was substantially cheaper than going with quartz like we have on the counter top.

I would also take the tile up to the ceiling behind the exhaust fan.

Great job on your kitchen so far.

@chispa, thanks for your feedback. Another alternative I've been considering is doing all the backsplash in a 1"x4" calacatta gold herringbone to tie in both the grey of the floors/counter and the brown of the lower cabinets.

@leelee, thanks for your feedback. The tile will go all the way up the back of the rangehood to the soffit. I get the idea that minimal will be better but I don't want to go completely plain.

Too plain or too busy? I'd go too plain. Do the pics above look too plain to you?

Your herringbone is nice. Maybe it wouldn't be too busy. Or you might consider one with less variation in colors.

One tiny tip--you have 4 rectangles in a row with the openings, window and then the spoon picture.

Break up those angles by replacing the spoon with a round basket. Hang it low where the bottom part of the spoon is now.

I’m not sure if they are all like this, but my slide-in range didn’t go all the way back. Unless you’re planning on redoing your countertops, you may be limited to standard ranges now.

@Hillside House my countertops are brand new lol, just installed a week ago.

I think I used the wrong terminology. What I'm talking about is a free standing backless model. It's the same as what I have now but without the back. I believe the type you are talking about requires a filler strip in the back.

I think you can do the Calacuta herringbone and it won’t look too busy. Just check the boxes to make sure the stone you actually get looks like that sample with lots of warm brown/gold tones in it and not all cool greys.

We have two tone uppers/lowers and I know you really have to be careful to choose the other elements carefully to keep it from looking a mess. I agree with others that the slab behind the range would be too much. I also agree that what u have now looks great and it’s good you’re taking your time to choose the right splash.

Ok, how about this? Still too busy? Not sure I would do stacked though. Probably traditional subway layout. I like the larger format tiles with the more traditional marble look.

Your space is smaller. Using large format tiles won't look right.

@leelee, what size of tile do you think I should use?

Research "back painted" glass.

@chiflipper, I like back painted glass but am concerned about the cost.

As far as size goes standard 3 x 6 for subway or the 1 x 4 if you use herringbone.

@chiflipper are there any installation challenges I should be aware of (other than the potential for non-straight walls) if I go with larger format tiles like 12"x24", 8"x 20", or 4"x16 to more approximate the look of solid slab?

@leelee, not sure I understand the problem of using larger sized tiles even in a smaller area. Only difference is number of grout lines and if grout matches the tile their appearance will be more minimized, closer to the look of solid slab.

"I think I used the wrong terminology. What I'm talking about is a free standing backless model. It's the same as what I have now but without the back. I believe the type you are talking about requires a filler strip in the back."

Perhaps you are thinking of a cook top needing a filler strip?

As a Slide In stove is one without a back and is free standing as you state but from my experience they do need a counter strip between the back edge of the stove to the wall. So if you are serious about getting a slide in down the road, you may want to investigate it a bit further to see if what you are planning now will need to be changed down the road to accommodate your new stove.

jane- I can't figure out your photo but don't you have a gap? Just wondering as usually either the gas line or electric plug won't allow you to push the unit all the way to the wall. And the unit I had wouldn't slide as far back because the knobs being on the front were configured so that the front panel stuck out on the sides and wouldn't allow the stove to be pushed past the counter.

My countertops were templated with my existing stove which is a standard 30". As long as I stick with the same size it will be fine. My existing range is electric and goes right to the back of the wall. What I'm talking about is like what janetmm59 describes, only with an induction cook top instead. I think they are called free standing front control (except mine does have the controls in the front but still has a back). The "slide-in" models are the ones that need a filler strip.

Can you share pix of completed project? We are deliberating between a sintered product-Dekton-& Silestone. Thanks!

Dear M Giles, I hope you still get notifications of comments. I have your same original stove, but in bisque (I LOVE that color for kitchen appliances). The back you talk about is not the back of the range cabinet, (the free standing range), but the piece that acts like a short backsplash, which in this case has a light all the way across, but not oven or stovetop controls. GOSH I WISH all the electric ranges were like this!!

I am currently having very similar considerations. I've looked at similar colors and styles. I don't want grout lines to deal with. So my preference is quartz all the way across, same as the new countertops and windowsill will be. (If pushed to a Choice B, white LARGE subway slabs, vertically)

But as your original question seems to have been lost while everyone wants to remodel your kitchen (I liked your rectangular frames 'spoon'), I'm still wondering how far down the new backsplash should be when this oven gets replaced with one that doesn't have that piece at the back of the stovetop.

We were told to have the backsplash come to the top of the countertops, but what about at the stove area? I wouldn't tuck the oven under the backsplash, I'd want it up against it.... How far down should that backsplash go?

What did you finally do?

@HU-173500418 I would run at least one more row of tile behind the range, beneath countertop height, so that you cannot see the drywall behind the range.

I'm so jealous of your countertops! I recently did a honed black granite that I thought would have more veining. I should have bit the bullet and got what I really wanted, it wouldn't have cost that much more...ugh!