Its this stretch of wall i am wondering if we are utilising the best

whether there is a better cupboard solution then this

that might come more along the wall, we wish this part of the laundry to place an ironing board, brooms etc

We have the washer and dryer side by side on the ground to obtain more bench space. I though would have preferred the below solution for your back

but the open bench space also provides a hanging rail for drying see below, so iam not sure the above id workable

something like the is should work but what is the space at the end of the toilet..do you plan for a handbasin in the toilet?

hi oklouise , that space at the end of the toilet is a powder room (and part linen closest to the hallway) the design above doesnt properly show it but basically it will have a basin in that spot.

You keep the rest of my design with the dryer - washer underneath but extend that corner right out. Can i ask what that slider type mechanism is? do you have any images from out on the web, obviously its not a full on Humes Cavity Slider, but just a standard type of slider that cabinet makers can construct?

a simple sliding mechanism with the cabinet made out of the same material as the other laundry cabinets ...your cabinet maker will be able to recommend the best mechanism but a standard hinged door would be much cheaper and glad to learn that you have a handbasin for the toilet

If you shift the hallway door over towards the cupboard you could store your ironing board and clothes rack behind the door.
Add a rail under the shelf and move the shelf to over the sink so you can drip dry clothes into sink.

unfortunately we will not be moving any more doors or cutting brickwork, it is as pictured. But we could do your rail idea over the sink

The following gives up a stacked washer/dryer, a large storage cupboard that will take your ironing board as the shelves are "L" shaped.

the washer/dryer is open to the room.

1400 benchtop including sink with drying rack above

You don’t actually need a door for oklouise’s corner cupboard idea - the contents will only be visible from inside the laundry anyway, so why bother concealing it further?

thanks Sirius considering this now

currently this power point is slated to go above, you can see it chased down, ignore that red arrow. I could put a nib wall here or just put the power point elsewhere , maybe a double thickness wood panel to put it into , and no nib wall

I think that power point could work where it is, all depends on the width of your washer dryer, as far as nib walls go you could use a panel that comes from the kitchen/laundry company. they would plan a panel across the top of the machines from the corner pantry to the nib panel to brace it. The under bench cabinet next to the pantry can be fitted out as a dirty laundry basket examples in the following

https://www.bunnings.com.au/flatpax-450mm-utility-linen-chute_p2666214

www.kaboodle.com.au/products/detail/1000mm-blind-corner-pantry-cabinet 

What is the flooring like in the laundry.

It would be a good idea to have small window next to the sink to allow ventilation and help with drying things that you have hung on the rack

Hi, we now think we will just have that light switch on the outside of the room in the hallway. i know you normally have a light inside the room, particularly a toilet or bathroom with a fan involved but in this case it would probably be okay, just in terms of maximising space on that wall.

The edge of the light switch as you see presently is about 190mm from inner edge of the door jamb

I mean to add, your image shows a top loader, we would use front loaders in both cases, this frees up that air gap btw them, I was thinking of a shelf like the above in that space, or below it or above it?

The width of the washer dryer is undetermined as I havent bought then, I suppose your typical 8.5-9kg family sized machines?

https://www.winningappliances.com.au/p/bosch-bosch-serie-8-8kg-front-load-washing-machine-waw28460au

so this one is depth 590mm, what minimum space behind them do you need to fit the pipes and plumbing. If we go with this design we need to route the pipes all the way down the L shaped design back to that outside wall (the one the sliding door is on)

Hi oklouise or Siriuskey, the designer at the kitchen mob we will probably use says the walk in cupboard will not work, i havent got any more reasons why, so can you explain at all via maybe an image on the web, 3D or some other way , how it works?

do you have a wardobe or cabinet with twin hinged doors? then open one door and reach in behind the closed door and you should understand my idea (the space is only about 60cm square by the height of the cabinet and well within adult arms' reach..the space is not to walk into it's to have multiple shelves in the corner accessed from the side and, for me, there would be several adjustable shelves to suit a sewing machine and mending supplies, a basket of shoe polishes and brushes, a bucket, dust pan, broom and duster to carry around the house when cleaning and the remaining tall space is for ironing board, broom, mop, vaccum etc with an overhead shelf for a laundry basket ...the tall blind corner cabinet should suit what you want to store.. .keeping in mind that the out of the way space should be for less often used items and you also have the small vanity in the powder room for toilet paper, hand towels and toiletries, the wall cabinet above the laundry counter for storing washing powder and toxic supplies and the space under the sink for extras.

If it’s of any help, in order to be compliant we reluctantly had to locate our lights/ fan/ heating switches outside the room. It hasn’t caused a problem at all. We usually pre-warn visitors, but when we forget, no-one has had difficulty finding the switches or commented that it’s a nuisance of any kind.

Re depth required. Our bench top is 750mm deep. The WM is 670 deep. But we have doors and a kickboard on the front to hide the appliances.

It’s difficult to measure precisely, but there‘s approx an 8cm gap behind the WM. The ppt is in between the appliances and both have flat plugs. The water hoses screw into the bottom of the shorter type pipe fittings (as opposed to the deeper variety where the hose thread is on the front).

Check the curved front profile of most front loaders. The door protrudes further than the top edge of the unit. Depending on your preference, the cabinetry could be as deep as the top edge dimension + rear gap allowance. Or come out further to align with the front of the WM door so it doesn’t protrude at all. My friend’s WM door protrudes slightly beyond the bench top but she’s never mentioned it being a problem. Hope that all makes sense!

The light switch will be perfect in the passageway and as for an extraction fan that will be needed in the powder room with both light and it on one switch.

Did you check out the link I sent you for the "Blind corner cupboard", I don't understand why your kitchen company suggests that it doesn't work. do you have a floor plan from them.

You mention possibly adding a drawer under the machines, keep in mind the height of the top machine and being reachable.

You need to sort out which machines you will be going with so that you have all dimensions and installation details for plumbing.

I had a Blind corner pantry in our last house and loved it, the shelves are 30cm deep so gives easy access to find everything.

Having the cupboard next to the pantry for dirty linen is perfect for loading into the machine, you can even get a double one similar to rubbish bins.

This layout should give you great storage and the return gives a bit privacy in the laundry when looking in from the passageway, and also defines the powder room

should mention that the ironing board will stand in the cupboard against the left hand wall

If you go for a blind corner cupboard only put a base under the shelves not the walk in section. That should be just a continuation of the laundry floor so you can walk in.

Do you actually need the linen cupboard in the hallway for linen? It could be the ironing board/storage cupboard.

my old program doesn't have front loaders, your matching front loaders will look so much better. The blind corner cabinet isn't a walk in it's just a reach in,

The base is the same height as the other cabinets.

Do you actually need the linen cupboard in the hallway for linen? It could be the ironing "board/storage cupboard. "

we have considered that

GPO in the Laundry OH cabinets - we will have a splashback btw benchtop and OH cabinets, but do not want GPOs in there, should we install in the OH cabinets (we did this in our shaving cabinets in a bathroom), if so how many?

I was told a GPO down on the wall would suffice, but that then means you can not operate machines up on the laundry bench if required

Hi AndrewJason,

Again! :)

Depending how many people in your home. Do you have other linen store somewhere else in the home? If so I would consider going with the linen hall cupboard in the laundry for tall things, then using the full length of the wall for the bench, units under at the outside door end, and put the sink nearer to hall door: think about the order in which you would usually use these things. Dirties in from the kids rooms and the bathroom, rinse, soak, hand wash, WM, TD if you need to, out the door to the "rotary or linear, unit for air movement and solar assisted moisture removal with appendages and wiring" ! When it has achieved its optimal, goods are brought in and bench is used for folding and stacking.

The shirt rail under the overhead cupboards are brilliant! As are rails along the other walls for towels in use or pool towels, airing, finish drying etc. My preference would be to move the hall and outside doors to the center of their walls so you have two sides of "U" with walkway between down the center of the room, for cupboards, benches etc between the full length of the room. Go on knock out those bricks!!! Even with the loo door on the right hand wall the space would be very helpful.

Hope this is helpful.

Cheers,

Margot