Hi again- I have been looking at Benjamin Moores colors and have chosen a few you might look at. My technique for color choices is to buy several large sheets of MDF from the hardware and several paint samples that I think will work. Grab a plain white sample pot as well and just play with colors; if what you thought looked good in the shop and doesn't look good in reality, just add a bit of the white to lighten it and use the darker tones to deepen. Once you've found the color you like paint it on one of the large MDF sheets and live with it for a day or two and see how it looks morning,night, south side of building,northside of building. If the color that you like is one that you've mixed yourself, just go back to the paintshop as I'm sure B Moore would have the right shade so you can match it. Do you know the color name of the roofing? Is it IRONSTONE or MONUMENT? I'd be tempted to use that same color for the windows. My personal trick for contrast and trims is to take the main color and ask paint shop to make it up in 1/4 strength even lighter if need be. Good luck and post pictures when it's finished.

Blue gray window frames match the funky roof. The cedar is diametrically opposite on the color wheel as a orange tone. Usually the browner grays (sort of the light shade now on the stucco) do better with cedar to say modern, but since you have the blue gray, allow me to suggest that you just go as dark gray as you can - nearly charcoal on all the weatherboard. If you are in a high heat area (palms might or might not be - that might be the ocean on the horizon which might me an onshore breeze all the time) then you want a white. Not a blue-white but a warm white - bm maritime white is a good choice. With the cedar and the two blue-blue-gray elements, you need neutral without tone.

Personally I cannot see what the problem is - I don't mind the presentation. It is not in your face wonderful. but it is never going to be. Its neat and tidy which is really important when it comes to home presentation. I don't like your idea re the bitsy garden at all. It will completely ruin the existing facade. Why not consider a line of pots - big pots running parallel to the wooden fence. The pots need to be all the same - maybe 5 in number. Tall and narrow in shape. Use quality potting mix and consider a native grass in all of the pots like Lomandra Nyalla. This plant will last for years in a big pot and they are tough. But take care of them because if you do this and dont take care of them,. then crappy pot plants are worse than not doing anything at all. Why not remove the lawn that you don't like and use a fine aggregate like Lillydale Toppings with a good base underneath. The effect that I have suggested is neat and tidy but also will give the area a professional, more modern look. If in doubt, leave as is! Alison

Thanks Susan. I would love to get feedback here from the Houzz community on butterfly roof construction. I know that flashing the valley will be critical to say the least. Whoever does the roof has to have 1. Skill 3. Architectural specs to follow 2. Guaranteed work. How do they hold up in a climate such as yours which is sub-tropical? It's a big project so you will need to be confident in the outcome. [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/can-you-please-tell-me-how-the-water-drains-from-the-valley-of-this-butterfly-roof-dsvw-vd~423763?n=2[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/can-you-please-tell-me-how-the-water-drains-from-the-valley-of-this-butterfly-roof-dsvw-vd~423763?n=2) And here is a box gutter diagram to check out. I would research the heck out of construction techniques so as to be as informed as possible so that you are able to have a better dialog with the roofer when the time comes http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/box-gutter.html