Problem with glass mosaic water line pool tile
I have Luanda bay mantra tile on the face of my jacuzzi and water line pool tile . All of the tile that is submerged in water is fine . The tile above the water line is cracking , breaking and a few have fallen off . The company that sold me the tile says it is because there are no"movement or soft joints " between the coping and the tile . They say and I have researched this, that because the tile above the water line is subject to changes in temp, glass expands and contracts and without the soft joint there is no where for those stresses to go so the tile breaks . Below the water line the environment is constant . Lunada says it was not installed properly . I have a lot more information but this is getting too long . Anyone else have problems with glass pool tile like this ?
Comments (30)
Angel 18432
8 years ago
epuig
8 years agoRelated Discussions
1940's NZ kitchen - small, awkward-ish layout.
Comments (121)I would suggest you take out the cabinet that is to the right of the stove and use it elsewhere in the house -- perhaps in the bathroom or dining room with a hutch above it. Then, I would suggest you have someone install a lazy susan cabinet in the corner between the sink counter and the stove, meaning you would move the stove down a bit and have a small cabinet/counter top to the right of the stove. I would suggest you have the cabinets refinished in white and then paint the walls a pastel you like. If you would prefer white walls, then add white-painted crown molding and paint the ceiling a light neutral blue, such as Sherwin Williams Niagara Falls Blue. Then, I would suggest you choose a favorite accent color and use this sparingly in accessories like towels, pot holders, small vases or floral arrangements, and a valence above the triple windows. For a genuine 1940s look, you might have white ceramic square tiles with a rectangular red border installed as a back splash behind and above the stove. If you are replacing counter tops, I would suggest a light color such as white with a beige or light grey vein or striation for some sort of pattern. You might be able to find the same color and design in floor tile OR opt for a wood floor as another poster suggested....See MoreTILES CAN I "HONE" AN INDOOR TILE FOR OUTDOOR USE ONCE COATED ?
Comments (10)Excuse my duh-ness but i'm having difficulty trying to follow whats going on here. Are these two photos an exact replica of your house and pool ? If not a hasty sketch with dimensions could help a lot. By kitchen wall do you mean the wall behind the bar ? And where is the pool wall ? Are you considering the covered area as being "inside" ? Sorry for all those questions lol Sometimes when you have a design problem you need to turn it inside out or on it's head. If you can't beat it maybe embrace it by making a feature of it : i.e. contrast by having the lightest colored pool surround and a great blue or tile inside and under the overhang, something that will echo the water color ? If you have a great covered area as in photo you'll most likely be spending a lot of time there and it could be soothing to be able to sometimes retire into a darker inside. In my book, 10M isn't small and also contrasting two floor colors doesn't necessarily make a space seem smaller and confined and may in fact even open it up. Could it be that you've thought yourself into a box here ? Sometimes one needs to give it all a good shake up and see how it resettles....See MoreJoining tongue n groove to subway tile
Comments (12)Hello There: Your home looks like it has some good bones and period features. No one has yet to comment on marrying subway tiles on lower walls, with tongue and groove cladding on upper walls of your space. I am thinking this finished look could well end up looking quite "busy." Lots of competing "grid" lines, etc. If I understand correctly, this space is actually, or ultimately will be, a bathroom. Perhaps you do not want a wood product on lower sections of the walls because of potential water damage, etc. That said, there are excellent paints, sealants, etc., that you could apply that would guard against this. If painting, using Zinsser Sealant as base coat is a good starting point. As another alternative, you could use much larger tiles on lower portion of walls, oriented vertically. I am thinking 12" x 18" (or 24") tiles. Of course, these are more challenging to install, given their greater size and therefore, weight. Despite this, if you have an excellent tiler, it can definitely be done. For example, you could choose glass tiles, either clear or coloured. Going even further, you could install glass panels to lower sections of walls. You could "back paint" them or not. You could apply paint or even wallpaper (with a wonderful design and colour way you'd likely never tire of) prior to installing glass panels. The wallpaper idea, especially if design is more curvilinear in nature, would not be competing with verticality of tongue and groove, but rather, would complement and enhance it. If beautiful wallpaper (or heck, even a mural or timeless design could be painted directly on walls) is applied and then covered with clear glass panels, the overall effect would be akin to that of an art installation. Naturally, glass panels would be considerably more expensive, but would provide a more seamless, less cluttered appearance. Should you like this idea, simply check what thickness of glass would work best, both for aesthetic and safety purposes. If you have a bit of time to shop around for best supplier and price point, you could well suss out a source that will not "break the bank!" :) To affix glass panels to the walls you want to use hardware that is anodized. As an idea, you could use anodized lug nuts that are usually used for automotive purposes. I just looked up "anodized lug nuts" and see they are available in wide array of wonderful, decorative colours. This hardware would be visibly holding your glass panels in permanent place, but they would be a small attractive design element, ultimately adding another layer of visual interest to your space. I believe glass panels would tie in very well with your great, textured/mottled glass panelled door and transom. Too, I think the overall look would achieve a really attractive marriage as various materials, along with period architectural features would "read:" old, new, and timeless. I realize this design concept may seem counterintuitive to you and/or others, but I can "see it" and think it could be just fab! All The Best, Sharon Black, interior designer and contractor...See MoreShould we completely tile our spa or not?
Comments (1)I do like the tiles... however I suggest you give a think about the future cleaning of the grouting before you commit. Near a spa, the moisture in the air is a breeding ground for algae and mould....See More
Carol Shafman
6 years agomiriampaige
6 years ago- PRO
Ali G. Designs
5 years ago Patti Costello
5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
Home4Here
5 years ago
run2bfit
4 years ago
PROAquatic Technology Pool and Spa
4 years ago
Michael Hamilton
3 years agoMichael Hamilton
3 years agoMichael Hamilton
3 years ago
Lisa Lambros
3 years ago
PROBeth H. :
3 years ago- PRO
Aquatic Technology Pool and Spa
3 years ago 
Kristina Metcalf
2 years agorun2bfit
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoUpdate: I live in central Florida and The ANSI rated Tommy Bahama Surin 1x2 Brick glass pool tile by Lunada Bay is holding up beautifully after one year+. I did a great deal of research educating myself and our installer who only installs for a pool company. I read over the instructions carefully with him showed him the Ken Milbery video. He followed the instructions to the letter even redoing the first area he was not satisfied with afterwards. This was his first experience installing the paper faced glass tile using the new standards. He was a true professional. Just wanted to share this update with anyone interested. Here are a few before and after photo's. *I did not seal the faces of the tile prior to grouting or at anytime after.
Kristina Metcalf
2 years ago
Butthatsjustme
2 years agorun2bfit
2 years agoArie S
2 years agorun2bfit
2 years agoKristina Metcalf
2 years agoI’m curious about the expansion joints. I can’t find anywhere where is says how big they should be. Our tile has been installed and grouted and I’m seeing only a 1/8” space between the stacked stone on our water feature and the glass tile (Lunada bay). There have been a few mistakes made on our installation so far according to an industry expert and we are at the point of putting on the coping, which is another issue because we have tile sitting above the pool beam. I have tried very hard to do as much research as possible and have shared all of it with our pool contractor who is well known and respected, however, they have been sloppy. I also don’t see any expansion joints around the skimmer which I understand there needs to be since the tile is meeting a new material.
- PRO
Beth H. :
2 years ago Kristina Metcalf
2 years ago- PRO
Beth H. :
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago 
efasano10
last yearlast modified: last year
Hi yes I actually just had the same issue with my mosaic glass pool tiles. The same exact thing happened to us. The tiels under the water were perfectly fine but the tiles above the waterline started to become damaged. Mine were purchased at NPT (National Pool Tile) Arctic 1X1 glass tile Ice #AT012. At first we though it was salt build up and we tried to clean it and tried differnt products. Then we started to notice the glass was breaking off. We called NPT and they did a warrenty form for us. They stated that they discontinued this line from its manufactuer. They had a gentalmen from NPT warrenty come out to our home to see and inspect the condition of the tile. Suprisingly the man from the company had also picked out the same tile for his pool, he said he wife loved the color and he too had the same issue. He said he did a lot of research and found that these are made and manufactured in Mexico. He said there is a specific process which is done for glass tiels used in pools. It is called the ANNEALING process. Its the cooling process of the glass. The glass must be able to withstand submersion in the water, water pressure, expansion and contraction of grout, chemically treated water and full sun. It is very unfortunate that we did not know that the glass tile we picked out was not a high grade "pool approved tile" or it was but it was not Annealed properly and therefore was defective. We loved loved this tile. We are in the process of having our pool builder send a quote to the company and we picking out new tile. UGH so sad. I never thought we would have to do new glass tile and resurface our pool so soon. Oh and yes our pool buidling said he has to do the diamond brite all over again he can not just remove the old tiles and re-tile it will not look right and the edges will not be smooth. UGH. I dont think you received the correct information it was not the installation it was the tile it self that is defective. At least that is what im learing. See all of the white scaling or what looks like scaling, its the tile braking down.
Isabelle Muha
last year
Ilene Nusblatt