I would suggest you take out the cabinet that is to the right of the stove and use it elsewhere in the house -- perhaps in the bathroom or dining room with a hutch above it. Then, I would suggest you have someone install a lazy susan cabinet in the corner between the sink counter and the stove, meaning you would move the stove down a bit and have a small cabinet/counter top to the right of the stove. I would suggest you have the cabinets refinished in white and then paint the walls a pastel you like. If you would prefer white walls, then add white-painted crown molding and paint the ceiling a light neutral blue, such as Sherwin Williams Niagara Falls Blue. Then, I would suggest you choose a favorite accent color and use this sparingly in accessories like towels, pot holders, small vases or floral arrangements, and a valence above the triple windows. For a genuine 1940s look, you might have white ceramic square tiles with a rectangular red border installed as a back splash behind and above the stove. If you are replacing counter tops, I would suggest a light color such as white with a beige or light grey vein or striation for some sort of pattern. You might be able to find the same color and design in floor tile OR opt for a wood floor as another poster suggested.

I won't bother with lattice, barrels are partially obscured from the street by fencing and if I put it up I would have to work around the lattice in order to turn the valves for water. If I can just make better use of collected water I'll be happy. We are at the end of our growing season so I should be cleaning up the garden and putting it to bed for the winter, just can't seem to get motivated. We had our first frost last week. Usually, our average early frost date is 1 November. I got almost no produce from garden this year, but there is always next year. Chookchook2 I've seen some of those decorative metal panels and they are gorgeous, sure hope your budget will allow you to get some before too long. Most of our state has been on fire for a good part of the summer. The closest is across the river from us and they have been battling it for almost a month. Some friends have had to evacuate repeatedly. We've only been concerned once, a small grass fire on our side of the river on a day we had wind gusts up to 65mph. Fortunately, it was put out quickly. Australia and New Zealand have both sent firefighters to help with the blazes. I can't begin to tell you how appreciative we are. The closest fire was fought for almost a week by local volunteers only as there were no other resources available. They were all on other fires. The Army National Guard (reserve troops) were called out to help with support duties and for the first time ever the federal Department of Natural Resources (DNR) asked for civilian volunteers to help with non firefighting tasks, cutting fire breaks, moving supplies etc.

This is why it's always good to have a pro to hold your hand for at least some of the way, (carefully chosen though, check out his/her finished projects, the more varied the styles, the better she/he will be able to understand and adapt to your desires), they can provide the invaluable visual supports too. When it's your own house it's notoriously difficult to see the possibilities, you have it under your eyes the whole time and the defaults shout at you and prevent you being able to see it objectively and envisage the possibilities. you're emotionally involved and emotions always have the upper hand on the brain, so you just keep turning round in circles. Something akin as to why a psy must never attempt therapy on a member of his own family, if you follow me :D As for the façade color, are you sure it needs changing that much ? Once those thick white frames have gone and the new windows nestling more discreetly, correctly positioned and re-proportioned, the aspect will change drastically and be far more streamlined and modern. (the devil is in the detail) I'd also strongly suggest that the wood facing just breaks off around the windows, no framing or finishings. Same thing for all the windows, the small ones too. Entrance : Same as for the windows, that outer frame shouldn't be touching the ceiling, you can try taking that off and painting the door another color before deciding to change it and once again the door could do with setting back a little. You could maybe take that doorstep out while you're at it. Also, i don't know what is happening to the right of the door but i see the concrete steps leaing up and feel it would be good to create another level to make it flush with the bottom of the door if structurally possible. This would tie it all in better and you probably wouldn't need any additional definition to your entrance. Anyhow, as i often quote, i'm a firm believer in " Less is More " , and vice versa of course ^^ Question #4 i can't answer as i haven't really understood the problem And #5 i don't think so, but once the other transformations have been taken care of i think you'll find it speaks for itself. Whatever, it's a very exciting project, the bones are great and i'd love to see photos of progression once you get started.

Thanks :) Yeah decided to go with tile. So sand cement is ok over existing tiles if I prep them first? Only problem is, the new pad can only be about 30mm at it's thickest (leaving up to 15mm for tiles) otherwise it'll end up being higher than the hallway floor. So I either need to make the fall shallower or not bother with the waste and make it all level. If I made it level, could I use levelling compound at that thickness or would deck mud/sand cement be the best option? Also, should I be putting in mesh for strength? (I know I should (and will) ask the local hardware what they suggest, but it's great to have suggestions from the Houzz community also)