Hello Lisa..thanks for your comments - so kind of you. The pictures are not good (sorry) and to be honest whilst I'm renovating I don't have the courage the post much at all ..well at least until it's finished but here are a few enclosed. My real idea is to get a discussion going that we might all enjoy. and yes how light strikes (as in angle?) can impact on even the paint colour etc. I see so many questions from readers about wallpaper paint colour etc and yet experts and skilled people such as yourself will know that it's the cohesion that has to work and light can play such a huge part. A wallpaper can be purchased and then prove disappointing if used in different a light as can paint - which is why we use your good services where possible! I've a pile of boards each with different colours (I use linen style artists boards as I can shift them around - I leave a white border on them to allow a suitable contrast) The small bedroom picture with the striped curtains was more to show that curtain colour - it's now blended with duck egg blue paint (sorry it's a New Zealand company called Resene's so it won't be known of there but called Robin's Egg Blue), ivory carpets which I had edged in a green/blue wool. Before these drapes (Laura Ashley) were in a different room and just didn't work. The bedroom hasn't been finished (See? I'm still a tad embarrassed) but I mentioned these as with incandescent lights this curtain colour did not work at all. Taking my courage in both hands and uploading a picture of the main living area which is to be painted next to do away with the strong saturated green..very dark and gloomy as the natural light is very limited. Hoping you can't see the paint splotches on the wall. Another lesson I learned is to paint a surface white and THEN paint the choices. If we don't do this the original surface colour 'bleeds'. So I really hope to have others including myself recognise that we have to have one eye to the climate and outdoor colours all the time as well as the same paint colour possibly being different from room to room. Regards...and thank you once again for taking the time to reply.

@thinkforothers, Ha-ha that's so funny about your American trip but yes I use the duvet as a top sheet. As for getting the dooda back into the cover, I have a pretty simple method and it doesn't take allot of effort nor does it include being swallowed up by the duvet in the process as you said ha-ha..... but there is a bit of back and forth around the bed. I flick the duvet open onto the bed, I grab the one corner of the doona head up towards the respective corner and pull the duvet back towards my hand a little too and place it down, repeat on the other side, then I grab each top corner seperately holding the doona firmly in the corner and pull it up to the headboard, whilst walking back to the end of the bed I lift the cover slightly, allowing the doona to get further swallowed up by the cover, then I'm left with slipping either corner of the doona into the duvet. I do up the buttons then holding the bottom of the duvet, I flick the cover, towards the headboard, so that the doona edges forward in the cover and even flick the doona on both sides of the bed left to right and vice versa and it's usually perfect. Its very easy doing a single doona by again spreading the duvet over the bed, grab the doona corners, one in each hand, walk them up to the corners, lay it down then pick up the dooda by the top corners and shake a few times just straight down, even stand on a safe stool or on the bed and you will usually find the duvet with eaze it's way down with just the bottom corners to slip in and again voila!!! Unfortunately, when I bought two of my duvet sets from Ezibuy, I bought NZ king which is a bit wider that an Australian king size and I didn't know that at the time and I have a bit of slack on the sides but it doesn't cause any problems and what I mean by this is, that the doona doesn't slip all the way to the left or right, it does stay in place. Hope that explanation was clear, I should do a video ha-ha Cheers, Barbara

The setting is quite tropical, so a darker scheme with white trims has such a tropical holiday feel. You may consider using a concrete face brick for the lower section. This will be modern, and eliminate the need for painting, while still creating contrast with the upper level. Try a colour for the main house like Resene Evolution, or Quarter Evolution, both would be perfect for your style of home. The colour scheme that we recommend for you is our Rainforest Board which includes everything you need to bring the look together! https://www.bodoboards.com.au/collections/paint-concept/products/rainforest-paint-concept We would love to see updates as you go.. its going to be great!

@Tribbletrouble44152k7 Trek, no not necessarily.. it fulfills it's purpose if you buy the one that is correct for what you want it for.. a bit of a catch22 and up to the store to point out that the thin stuff may dent.. in fact any of it can... there are many things that will void warranty of laminate floors.. here is a good website dealing with the cleaning and care .. http://www.baneclene.com/articles/laminate-care-consumer.html Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on the floor. Spike or stiletto high-heel shoes may cause denting and related damage to wood floors due to the extremely high compressive force they generate. Such footwear can produce dynamic loads in excess of 1,000 pounds per square inch, even when worn by someone of slight or average build. Worth reading the whole thing.. Just worth reminding people that laminate flooring is mdf with a picture of wood printed on the surface with a couple of protective layers of clear coating over the top..it cannot be wet or steamed.. it will swell. Make sure you ask questions.. Wood vinyl planking is very durable and hardy, and bamboo is considered to be one of the strongest timbers.. if you choose to have floors redone with any of the above products please look them up on google and find out the qualities.. I vote for wood vinyl.. looks brilliant, can float or be glued (recommend glue for wet areas such as bathrooms, laundries) is hard wearing and cost is comparable with mid range wood laminate flooring and hardier. Hope that all helps. If you must have wood laminate then go for 10 - 12 mm.. anything less will flex. Must have underlay and be laid on a level floor.. There are self levelling compounds you can use to make this easier... hope all this helps.