Hello Lisa..thanks for your comments - so kind of you. The pictures are not good (sorry) and to be honest whilst I'm renovating I don't have the courage the post much at all ..well at least until it's finished but here are a few enclosed. My real idea is to get a discussion going that we might all enjoy. and yes how light strikes (as in angle?) can impact on even the paint colour etc. I see so many questions from readers about wallpaper paint colour etc and yet experts and skilled people such as yourself will know that it's the cohesion that has to work and light can play such a huge part. A wallpaper can be purchased and then prove disappointing if used in different a light as can paint - which is why we use your good services where possible! I've a pile of boards each with different colours (I use linen style artists boards as I can shift them around - I leave a white border on them to allow a suitable contrast) The small bedroom picture with the striped curtains was more to show that curtain colour - it's now blended with duck egg blue paint (sorry it's a New Zealand company called Resene's so it won't be known of there but called Robin's Egg Blue), ivory carpets which I had edged in a green/blue wool. Before these drapes (Laura Ashley) were in a different room and just didn't work. The bedroom hasn't been finished (See? I'm still a tad embarrassed) but I mentioned these as with incandescent lights this curtain colour did not work at all. Taking my courage in both hands and uploading a picture of the main living area which is to be painted next to do away with the strong saturated green..very dark and gloomy as the natural light is very limited. Hoping you can't see the paint splotches on the wall. Another lesson I learned is to paint a surface white and THEN paint the choices. If we don't do this the original surface colour 'bleeds'. So I really hope to have others including myself recognise that we have to have one eye to the climate and outdoor colours all the time as well as the same paint colour possibly being different from room to room. Regards...and thank you once again for taking the time to reply.

Carpet has come under fire because of the allergy/asthma reactions. Carpet can hold dozens of pounds of human skin/dust/mites in it. It can never be fully cleaned nor can the dust be completely removed. Because of this, many people are looking for solid flooring options which reduce allergens, reduce asthmatic events, are easier to clean and last longer. High end carpet (the stuff that is worth more than hardwood) still has its place in high end homes - often times in luxury bedrooms/luxury appartments (noise issues have to be taken into consideration) but on the whole, the general public is shying away from wall-to-wall carpets. Cork flooring is seeing a huge increase in sales because it "takes over" for carpet. Soft, quiet, warm, easy to clean, hypo-allergenic, antimicrobial, instect resistant. It is the "go-between" type of flooring for people used to carpet who need to move to solid surfaces for their health. As Canadians, we love this flooring because it is so warm.

Absolutely no problem changing up the carpet. Things to watch for......make the transition in a doorway, an opening or along a visual break in the rooms (like the corners of the walls). I would stay in the same colour range, but just go to the other end of the spectrum rather than change the colour completely.....like light grey going to dark grey, not light grey going to navy blue. You want the separation but an easy transition on the eyes.

Do you want to keep the wood floor? It is rare to see wood floors as garage floors. I've seen homes like this moved onto pour basement slabs (same concept as pile foundation...but with a basement instead of dirt. If you want to keep the wood, then there has to be a way to keep the wood off of the concrete. An 18" crawl space (dirt covered with 6mil poly sheeting or cement) is always an option. The 18" crawl space would have to be cross vented/heated properly. This is for "keeping" the wood. Flooring. I'm not sure what has to be done to remove the wood floor and have the building sit (joists and all) on concrete. Remove the joists and you have plenty of stability problems. You would need to speak with a local architect/building engineer who has some knowledge of what you are trying to do, soil conditions, etc. to get this right. In theory it can be done (we've just landed a small car on a comet...we should be able to put an old building on a cement slab)...I'm wondering about the expense to get it there (excavation + soil stabilization + concrete + piles, etc).