I like the concrete bloc walls. They are becoming quite fashionable today. I'd keep them in the natural concrete color or if they have been painted, a color paint that resembles concrete. The concrete walls give a hard and cold impression so I'd choose wood flooring for the floors. The combination of a warm wood on the floor and hard, cold concrete on the walls is a nice one. Brighten the space with colorful modern art.

When installing over top of old ceramic/porcelain be aware that you will most likely have to "sink" the old tiles in cement to do this. That means grinding down the tiles a little (rough up the surface) then the self leveling cement is poured and allowed to dry. The new floor is then laid over top. Vinyl is notorious for requiring EXTREMELY flat surface. A ceramic tile rarely has this requirement (grout lines and "high spots" around tile corners give problems). A glue in place tile is also going to have the same problems and the same solution = sinking the tiles in cement. This adds extra costs to the floor. A rigid floor like a cork floating floor can handle a bit more floor deflection than vinyl or laminate planks. If labour in your area is relatively cheap...you could probably have the tile removed and the sanding of the mortar done for the same price as coating in concrete. You will also have the luxury of being able to lay any floor you want once it is done AND you don't have to worry about increasing the floor height. It is possible to sink the ceramic in cement...but is it the most cost effective option? Maybe not.

Thanks :) Yeah decided to go with tile. So sand cement is ok over existing tiles if I prep them first? Only problem is, the new pad can only be about 30mm at it's thickest (leaving up to 15mm for tiles) otherwise it'll end up being higher than the hallway floor. So I either need to make the fall shallower or not bother with the waste and make it all level. If I made it level, could I use levelling compound at that thickness or would deck mud/sand cement be the best option? Also, should I be putting in mesh for strength? (I know I should (and will) ask the local hardware what they suggest, but it's great to have suggestions from the Houzz community also)

Thank you. My husband and I chose the tile (per recommendation at the tile store) and used a professional tiler (per recommendation at the tile store) for the install. It isn't a flip. This is a family home that we purchased and spent a year renovating—not DIY but with all professional hired help and a contractor to oversee the job. This tile person wasn't hired by him, though, as he was happy to use the person that we were told was very good by the tile store…. My heart is sinking. I absolutely hate the idea of retiling the shower as there is matching tile on all walls, including shower. I'm hoping there is some other idea out there that will help. I do personally think the tiler should have informed us if the tiles we supplied to him weren't suited to be mitered…we discussed it even before tiles were purchased and he didn't mention any specifications. I'm just worried now that if we put it on him to fix it, we'll end up with a bigger mess...