katrina, That is why in another post I have said that you may get water into the bathroom area. Because the shower recess is sloped not the whole bathroom floor.

Can i suggest you change the direction of your shower screen, and use smaller tiles for the actual shower recess. You can use your big 600x600 for the rest of the bathroom. But if your happy with the cuts on the big tiles, that is a normal way to do the shower recess.

@dreamer is normal for only the 900x1050 area to be sloped of the recess, and the rest on the recess not to be? what size is best, 300x600?

You are right, if this is so the shower panel may need to go the other way, from the entry side towards the window?

I've not seen a picture of a walk in shower with the 4-slope square drain.

They all look like this:

i think you mentioned your bathroom is a renovation not a new build. This makes a difference in the ability to put the correct slope for the shower. A new build the concrete is laid and screed according to the design. If your bathroom is an existing concrete floor, then apart from jack hammering the whole floor up and re screeding, you have to work with what you have.

300 x 300mm would be good.

And you may find the pictures you have posted are showers that are two metres long with a 1200mm shower screen, brand new floor, allowing for correct slope for tiling when built.

You are always going to get water on the floor with an open shower. The image you’ve been sent looks a reasonable solution. If you choose to use smaller tiles in the shower then use them for the entire floor. When you’re renovating it’s a constant juggle between what you want and what you can be done.

Can I suggest you install a frameless door on your shower entrance. The size of the actual shower recess with screen is just a bit bigger than a standard 900x900 shower. But if installing a door, it would make a actual shower recess of 1770 by 950mm. You can splash away till your hearts content.

Tanks for the suggestions so far.

yes it is a renovation not a new build, but a renovation as the entire floor is rotted, so it all needs to come up anyway and be replaced. there's currently no concrete there at all.

Okay, sorry Katrina, I assumed it was a concrete floor, my mistake. So if a timber floor needs to be built from scratch, then that is a completely different build scenario to concrete. Ask your plumber a few more questions about the process, so you understand why they need to complete in the way that they have instructed.

Agree with beach bathrooms. with this information you have now given about your renovation, you are building a new bathroom, so anything is possible. So as I have said previously speak to your plumber and start asking "why?" Questions.

hmmm, do you think maybe this (with door) instead of this (our inspo)?

From our bathroom company:

I use Wedi for all my shower bases and walls now. Its a German product that is far superior to anything we have in Australia. They also provide an independent warranty on your shower base. No Leaks!!

I cannot get the linear drain to work for your base. The width of 950 is not wide enough and the shower base is minimum 50mm thick, which means you will not get that seamless look as we only have 20mm to play with.

I just went on the Wedi website, and . The channel system W914x L1524 x H51mm

https://au.wedi.de/product-systems/shower-and-wet-room-systems/shower-systems/fundo-riolito-neo/

So you may need to trust your bathroom companies knowledge,

Re the shower door. I would not put it at the end, this will make the shower cubicle small and nothing special. But if you put the door in line with the shower screen, you will have a wonderful long shower space. Refer my photo previously posted. You could still hang a towel at the end of the shower space. Also take note in that photo is the cuts in the tiles, which are similar to what your bathroom company has proposed.

Apparently with the Wedi system they do no concrete base at all. They cut into the floor joists a little bit to put a sloped base on. company said we can have the shower going the other way, away from the entry door. They said the fixed panel can attach to the wall the cavity slider is in.

All systems like the Wedi shower base are installed the same way. Then a cement based sheeting is placed over the rest of the bathroom floor joists, then the tiles are laid over the sheeting.

FYI here is an example of another shower base company which have a good photo on their website showing the process.

http://www.atlantis.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Shower-for-timber-floors.pdf

Thanks @dreamer.

Thanks for this discussion Katrina, it’s fascinating? We have virtually the same layout in our en-suite (toilet and basin position reversed) and a similar reno plan to yours, though we are on a slab. I’ll be looking with interest at your before and after shots when you finish!

Thanks! Our floorplan will now look like this:

With rough inspiration/style photos looking like this: (shower wall and floor travertine grey, rest white)

Please let me know if you see any issues with these ! Or if you think all good to go! Cheers :)

The arrangement looks great

hOWEVER

The envisaged length of the glass panel /

The company has put us down for a 10mm 2000 high x 1050 wide Fixed Glass Panel, however, he said we can put upto a 1200 wide one in. The wall is only 1770, so depends if on how much room to get in. Ceilings are 2100.

if you can, put up two partitions in cardboard, or if you have a sliding door, leave it open 570mm and see if this enough to get in and out of shower recess comfortably. do not just put two lines on the floor, because that doesn't give the correct scenerio.

1200mm is the ideal screen for a walk in shower, 1050mm you will get water in the bathroom. But as you have now put the shower rose on the wall spraying towards the glass, that may stop a little bit of spray going onto the bathroom floor.

But if you really want the 1050mm screen, just buy really good thick floor mats to soak up the spray.

All the best. Im sure it will be wonderful.

Katrina

My strong suggestions

PLUMBING

DRAINAGE. ONLY a Heel Guard linear grate at the door end

SHOWER ROSE ( If you are replacing the ceiling, ceiling-mounted rose)

IF NOT replacing the ceiling, with 2100 height of the ceiling ( Rose height ?? ) Discuss with company /plumber )

Rose position, if the shower is 950 + could be in long wall ( However, you will have back to glass when showering, my preference in door wall )

MIXER/DIVERTER, Default to o/head rose. divert to handheld rose, ( Prefer this combination, the majority of combination sets have chromed plastic components, are difficult to clean ( What will they look like 10/15 years? )

FLOOR

The new floor must be of cement-based material, fixed as specified

CARPENTER ( about $ 2,000, Labour cost )

Plumbing Timber Frame

A NECESSITY. All walls must be plumb and straight.

New floor, plumbing of walls, cut outs for recessed cabinet, niche, supporting timbers for wall hung vanity may take a carpenter up to four days and if you are moving plumbing he will have to return to fix down flooring days (

WALL LINING

Thickness dependent on tile thickness if greater than 15 mm 9mm thick Villaboard is optimum 9 far more expensive to purchase and fix ) VIllaboard, or equivalent cement base product NEVER Water-resistant Gyprock

WATERPROOFING

Only double waterproofing to us is acceptable!

Waterproofing under the tile bed AND on top of the tile bed

UNDER FLOOR HEATING

Check out kits and ask the Electrician to install ( he/she will be able to give you a quote ) They are not hard to install, however, Electrician needs to rough in

GLASS PANEL

ONLY 1200, 570+- is OK to enter shower most doors 600

TILING

Step down 10/15 mm. floor graded to linear grate at doo end

RECESSED CABINET

NOT possible for structural reasons to have a 900 w cabinet line up with 900 w vanity.

Any other questions, welcome

Ken

@Beach Bathrooms NOT possible for structural reasons to have a 900 w cabinet line up with 900 w vanity? Why is this?

@Beach Bathroomshave messaged you!

The wall lining of ( Villaboard ) must be fixed at the ends, A stud is required in the corner, a minimum of 35 mm wide.

A tiler can reduce the 35mm ..... 10 mm tiles + 6.5 mm for Villaboard +2mm adhesive

35-19mm = 16mm

Cabinet recessed start 16 mm from wall

So 1.6cm out from wall? That's okay, I'm sure he'll just do the vanity 1.6cm out as well to match.

Katrina

My suggestions are to us, the minimum requirements for a bathroom renovation designed to be excellent in 10 years plus.

What we do in our own/relatives with all our bathroom/ensuite renovations.

FLOOR

You mentioned in a post the whole floor requires replacing, this will enable the relocation of drainage.

DRAINAGE ( Cost of a plumber plus materials is dependant on existing drainage and your requirements a rough estimate of $1000 to $ 1500 )

Floor structural timbers ( some may require replacement due to water damage )

Should structural timbers be OK, the

NEW FLOOR must be either Sycon or Cemintel ( or similar products ) the entire floor ( A rough estimate $ 4500 to $ 5,000 ) fixed to manufacturers specifications

WALL LINING ONLY Villaboard ( or similar ) over all plumbed studs

CEMENT RENDER On any brick wall/s

SOUND INSULATION. Between all studs in all timber-framed walls.

WATERPROOFING

Water bars, polyester bandage andSikaflex 11fc application/locations omitted!

DOUBLE WATERPROOF, Both under and on top of the tile bed

Ist COAT Waterproof over the entire floor, up all shower walls, and 1 m beyond the shower, 300 above the height of proposed showerscreen, 200 up other walls and....

2nd COAT Repeat first coat

TILER ADDS TILE BED ( topping the floor )

ALLOW TO DRY

REPEAT WATERPROOFING to previous waterproofed areas

REPEAT WATERPROOFING to previous waterproofed areas