based on the drawing, the wall where the bed is. HOWEVER, you mentioned that this drawing is not a true depiction of the furniture you will use and the wallpaper. if that is the case, i think the wall paper can work on either wall, it all depends on how busy this wallpaper is and how "plain" the bed is. if you go with a busy wallpaper behind the bed, you may want to keep your bed and bedding on the minimal side so that there is a good visual balance to the overall composition. if you go with snazzier bedroom furniture, then a busy wallpaper may be a bit much and you may want to put it on the other wall or use a textural option to serve as the bed's background rather then another focal point.

Thanks :) Yeah decided to go with tile. So sand cement is ok over existing tiles if I prep them first? Only problem is, the new pad can only be about 30mm at it's thickest (leaving up to 15mm for tiles) otherwise it'll end up being higher than the hallway floor. So I either need to make the fall shallower or not bother with the waste and make it all level. If I made it level, could I use levelling compound at that thickness or would deck mud/sand cement be the best option? Also, should I be putting in mesh for strength? (I know I should (and will) ask the local hardware what they suggest, but it's great to have suggestions from the Houzz community also)

Unless buying custom manufactured wood cabinets, you are buying a series of boxes. A 100k euro kitchen installation of an Italian kitchen is one example from my portfolio. Differences are found in the hardware, the door/drawer pulls, weight of doors and exterior finishes. It is about the design, first. In our region, you can knock off 1200-2000 just be sticking with a full depth fridge--but it is design that will make it possible to install full depth and get a counter depth effect. In the Garden Oaks Fine Accommodation residential display suite I needed to prove that a high-end design can be executed for less. Again, it is design that does the trick. The owner of the kitchen above loves the pendants over the breakfast counter. I did not have the heart to reveal the price--$19 each. That owner likes/needs bling so the 14k euro chandeliers (2) in the foyer are a feature. But we get more comments on our pendants--because they are integral to the overall design. Real estate agents have pegged this kitchen at anywhere from 45-75k. It cost under 30k. DYI projects offer the opportunity to take the time that you might not otherwise allow to a designer (hence our need to come equipped with knowledge, contacts and suppliers that augment our services). I recommend drawing from images (Houzz is great for that) to start, then researching suppliers, collecting specs, and developing a document that covers all aspects of the kitchen from lifestyle needs to style to comparisons of product reviews. Whittle it down to an instruction for purchase and installation. Consider challenges such as the dreadful corner cabinet turntable and splurge on solutions that make your design truly functional. You'll appreciate the expense that delivers practical functionality. There are remarkable solutions for the corner cabinet--but my fav is to determine whether that space can become storage (cabinet or drawers) in an adjoining room. When not practical, articulated pull-out stainless shelves are functional--and cool. Undermounted sinks are great for clean-line counters. Well placed recessed lighting (design again) eliminates the need for other fixtures--and allows you free rein to purchase for focal point impact or (my preference) to fit seamlesly into the overall look. Enjoy the journey--have fun!

I think your layout is generally good. With a one bedroom it's nice for guests to have access to the ensuite without having to walk through the bedroom. One thing I do notice though is that there is a lot of hallway/storage/circulation space in the center of the building (in the two bedroom portion) that might be better used as living space. You could pretty easily make the ensuite in the one bedroom larger for example. The wash house space seems unnecessarily large to me as well. You could push the wall dividing kitchen from wash house almost all the way back to where the toilet door is in this plan (you'd then have the toilet door open into the wash room to the right from this viewpoint rather than straight ahead). This would leave much more kitchen to porch access, which would be nice.