Hi anna_cannon, having a plan drawn is a good start, you might want to put the dimension on the plan as well just to help others know exactly where everything is. This is what I think works given the information I have. Not sure if you how much renovation you are looking at and whether you need both doors to the back but I kept them just in case. Basically I have grouped similar functions together such as (freezer, pantry) (linen, washer/dryer, sink), and (bench, coat hanging close to the doors in the back) ... all the plumbing stays the same to keep cost down. Hope this gives you an idea on what's possible in your multi-functional space.

Hi there, here's my problem with your existing plan--there's no counter space between the sink and the refrigerator. Where will you prep your meals and where will you place your groceries when putting them away in the fridge? I have three ideas. 1.You could relocate the sink and DW to the peninsula. 2. Forget about the pantry, move the fridge over and gain that counter space. 3. Turn the pantry on it's side and make it 13" deep--it will still be useful. I am attaching a photo of a 13" hutch, but it could easily be a pantry with solid doors. I like that James Buckley suggested that you center the range on the wall--it makes it a focal point and you're not squished in the corner. Good luck and post photos when you're done.

Unless buying custom manufactured wood cabinets, you are buying a series of boxes. A 100k euro kitchen installation of an Italian kitchen is one example from my portfolio. Differences are found in the hardware, the door/drawer pulls, weight of doors and exterior finishes. It is about the design, first. In our region, you can knock off 1200-2000 just be sticking with a full depth fridge--but it is design that will make it possible to install full depth and get a counter depth effect. In the Garden Oaks Fine Accommodation residential display suite I needed to prove that a high-end design can be executed for less. Again, it is design that does the trick. The owner of the kitchen above loves the pendants over the breakfast counter. I did not have the heart to reveal the price--$19 each. That owner likes/needs bling so the 14k euro chandeliers (2) in the foyer are a feature. But we get more comments on our pendants--because they are integral to the overall design. Real estate agents have pegged this kitchen at anywhere from 45-75k. It cost under 30k. DYI projects offer the opportunity to take the time that you might not otherwise allow to a designer (hence our need to come equipped with knowledge, contacts and suppliers that augment our services). I recommend drawing from images (Houzz is great for that) to start, then researching suppliers, collecting specs, and developing a document that covers all aspects of the kitchen from lifestyle needs to style to comparisons of product reviews. Whittle it down to an instruction for purchase and installation. Consider challenges such as the dreadful corner cabinet turntable and splurge on solutions that make your design truly functional. You'll appreciate the expense that delivers practical functionality. There are remarkable solutions for the corner cabinet--but my fav is to determine whether that space can become storage (cabinet or drawers) in an adjoining room. When not practical, articulated pull-out stainless shelves are functional--and cool. Undermounted sinks are great for clean-line counters. Well placed recessed lighting (design again) eliminates the need for other fixtures--and allows you free rein to purchase for focal point impact or (my preference) to fit seamlesly into the overall look. Enjoy the journey--have fun!

Hi, Thanks for the response. :) I am following CCC Residential Suburban and Residential Suburban Density Transition Zone. It seems you can build 1m from boundary without having a window facing the boundary. I thought it seemed close, but if it gives me more space on the sunny side of the property then I'm happy. I wasn't sure how worthwhile it was me building interior/external walls into my design. I think a real draftsman would only use my dimensions as a guide and bin my project designs. I've only used the boundary line to design the entire thing, then used some Objects to give a visual guideline.