Do you want to keep the wood floor? It is rare to see wood floors as garage floors. I've seen homes like this moved onto pour basement slabs (same concept as pile foundation...but with a basement instead of dirt. If you want to keep the wood, then there has to be a way to keep the wood off of the concrete. An 18" crawl space (dirt covered with 6mil poly sheeting or cement) is always an option. The 18" crawl space would have to be cross vented/heated properly. This is for "keeping" the wood. Flooring. I'm not sure what has to be done to remove the wood floor and have the building sit (joists and all) on concrete. Remove the joists and you have plenty of stability problems. You would need to speak with a local architect/building engineer who has some knowledge of what you are trying to do, soil conditions, etc. to get this right. In theory it can be done (we've just landed a small car on a comet...we should be able to put an old building on a cement slab)...I'm wondering about the expense to get it there (excavation + soil stabilization + concrete + piles, etc).

We currently have a deck on the first floor over the garage. It construction is wood with a water proof membrane over, that is now leaking, with carpet that is used on boats over the top. What would be the lightest and best floor covering to use when we re do the deck?

Hi Mandamaree, You are fairly limited in space and in the size of the bedrooms to introduce what you request without compromising these spaces and future expansions to the house. The lounge too is a bit of a thoroughfare in the current layout. However, a few suggestions to ponder. Ensuite to B1, this could be just a 1m wide x 2.7m long space either along the wall to bedroom 2 or expand the wardrobe to 1m wide and re build a 600mm int. depth W/R along the B2 wall. If you used the existing wardrobe for the ensuite though, B3 would have no robe, but if it is to be a study, this may not be a concern. Alternatively, you could build in the space where the back door is and incorporate a toilet beside the laundry. Put the back door in the laundry. The toilet could be either beside the bathroom or B2. You could also economise by not having two accesses to the back corridor. (one from the living room and one from the kitchen) If you are looking at renovating the kitchen, I'd block off the back hall access opening and build a full wall of bench and joinery along that wall and either make an opening in the wall between the kitchen and living room or open it all up, except the back 600-700mm portion at the end of the joinery. If you remove the wall between the kitchen and living - might need a beam to replace it, then I'd extend the peninsular bench between the dining and kitchen, making sure it does not make the dining too small. You should have a minimum of 1200mm between kitchen benches so 2560 is good for this. You can butt the dining table upto the peninsular and still have 5 people seated around the table rather than have a breakfast bar. The space is too tight for a bar. Storage - always a drama in these older homes. Work high level units into the laundry and if possible, the bathroom. If you can afford to lose a few mm from the living room, make B2 robe the proper 600mm deep and include the old fireplace area too. As it is only a guest room, make part of that for the storage you need, i.e, suitcases, boxes of 'stuff' etc. The robe in B2 should be no less than 1200mm long to future proof this as a kids room or for rental. Hope that helps. Cheers, Christine.

Hi Chrissie, Not sure if you are still interested in some feedback for your kitchen/laundry/toilet redesign after 2 months but as you seem to have no comments, I thought I'd offer some for your consideration. Before looking at an actual solution, I'd avoid having the toilet accessed through the kitchen and try not to combine the laundry and pantry. The moisture in the laundry is not helpful in the pantry if you have a dryer. It appears that you are happy to close off the back door so I will assume that is ok. Below is a plan that might work well for you. All the external windows are kept in the same place to save some money, if the fridge can fit where I have placed it. It's good to have access to the fridge without interferring with what's going on in the kitchen, but you could put it somewhere else if you prefer. I've put the door into the bathroom as you had adjusted it but put the toilet behind that door ensuring enough leg room. This can be as little as 1m or 1100mm given the space actually goes to the shower when the door is closed. The existing walls could work for this but might need adjusting a bit. The linen cupbd can stay where it is but move the HW cylinder back and make the cupbd deeper. Then the powder room next to this pushing into the space currently occupied by your pantry. The deeper from the door wall you make the powder room, the shorter the space can be but pace it out to get it working well. Tight powder rooms are unpleasant. 1100 x 1400 should work but it depends on how big the door, toilet and basin are. Put the toilet to one side centred no more than 400mm off the wall making more space on the door side. The laundry occupies the space where your toilet is currently but widen it right out to the window so it is at least 1200mm deep if you can. If you need more space than the window allows, you can make the window smaller. Having double cavity sliders will make the space more usable. The kitchen becomes a galley arrangement with the butlers pantry just being a section of the space that is screened off from the dining and living rooms. This whole space will be really efficient. There are no corners for the kitchen in this arrangement, which I love as there are no complicated storage issues. You can move around the sinks and cooker if you like and make the peninsular an island if you don't mind losing 1000mm of it and the storage below. Also if you are a follower of Fung Shui, having fire and water (cooker and sink) on the same bench is not ideal. You could locate one of these on the peninsular and if you have young children, probably keep the cooker on the outside wall. The peninsular bench/pantry wall can be adjusted either way to suit joinery modules for better pricing. I.e, use 450 & 600mm modules or wider for big drawers. You can have an additional sink in the pantry if you want it but to save money, instead, move the sinks down in front of the other window and shunt the cooker to the left a bit. That way, all the mess is screened from the dining space. If you need some structural support on the living room end, you can have a post or short wall on the end of the peninsular. If you want the kitchen accessed from the dining room side rather than the living room, just shorten the peninsular bench so the fridge is still easily accessed. Good luck with the renovations. Christine.