Pictures of your dining room and kitchen would be helpful.

We just stained our section fences with Wattle Ebony from Mitre 10. Was looking for a charcoal color too, not much flexibility in color options with stains from the shelves at store. We sprayed on, rather than brushing. Is cost a concern? One of our to be neighbours was doing there fences at the same time with paint, he said he used nearly 100L of paint for 2 coats, we used nearly 50L in 2 costs - had similar amount of fences. I've included photo of it after the 2 coats

after watching my daughter and her husband agonize over the way their expensive timber floor has not held up well after 3 years, I would recommend tiles/wood look tiles with under heating. Their beautiful warm expensive floor looks like it always needs a clean and polish, not from neglect, they have cared for it well. One of the boards now has a slight and painful moan when it's stepped on :-( I grew up in a completely wood floor home and although it looked wonderful, my Mother hated it. ....and the mats ! Wood is a lot harder to maintain than tiles ,(no matter what the die hards say) the modern wood finishes are much better than they used to be.... But a piece of wood is rather arty no matter what it's used for and it does demand to be loved and cared for.....and if something goes wrong it's a lot more expensive to fix than sand and cement. Ultimately you have to be happy. BTW underheating tiles is warmer than timber :-)

Hi Jess, Unfortunately it probably wont stop doing this, as the timber join is butted together that join will always move given the nature of timber. A solution but might not be a cost effective solution would be to router the underneath of the join out with timber and glue in some more timber to help hold the join (a patch kinda thing) this will make the join stronger (assuming this hasn't already been done) Then we only recommend either a oil or wax finish if you want it to be left with a natural look or we apply a clear epoxy resin finish, this is a very good product (about 2-3 mm thick) and it lets the timber move a little and the product moves with the timber rather than crack like the lacquer seems to do. We pretty much always have the same result with kitchen benches when it comes to the sink area and joins. The main cause I see happening is that the timber moves (and it will never stop moving) and then if the lacquer is not flexible it will split open causing a spot for moisture to get in and under the lacquer making it go all funky like that A easier option would be to sand the tops and apply a oil and keep maintaining it, then you will never get the funky cloudy stuff happening, but you will need to do some research on what product are best and available where you are Good luck :-)