Hi again- I have been looking at Benjamin Moores colors and have chosen a few you might look at. My technique for color choices is to buy several large sheets of MDF from the hardware and several paint samples that I think will work. Grab a plain white sample pot as well and just play with colors; if what you thought looked good in the shop and doesn't look good in reality, just add a bit of the white to lighten it and use the darker tones to deepen. Once you've found the color you like paint it on one of the large MDF sheets and live with it for a day or two and see how it looks morning,night, south side of building,northside of building. If the color that you like is one that you've mixed yourself, just go back to the paintshop as I'm sure B Moore would have the right shade so you can match it. Do you know the color name of the roofing? Is it IRONSTONE or MONUMENT? I'd be tempted to use that same color for the windows. My personal trick for contrast and trims is to take the main color and ask paint shop to make it up in 1/4 strength even lighter if need be. Good luck and post pictures when it's finished.

What a fantastic architecture. When you do the brick, if you stain it with masonry /concrete stain you won't have the same issues of maintenance as with paint. They will spray it evenly - through you will have to select a deeper color - either taupe (brown-gray) or a straight charcoal. Love your windows and the classic angled railing. I think a dark gray on the siding will make the orange brick jump even more. What bothers me is the white (railing, fascia, eaves) juxtaposed with the earth toned stuff. So I would recommend camel tones - for the siding - something like http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6108-latte/ and the hopsack next darker tone for the garage door. Use the lighter tan for trim that is now white - http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6107-nomadic-desert/ Use the darkest tone if you are painting concrete steps. If you think you will stain your brick charcoal, then the white eaves and trim are probably right, and you may not want to paint it tan now and then go back. If your brick were charcoal, then I would block out the rest in grays and blue grays - leave the white eaves, but take the railing and posts charcoal too. A blue gray door - like sw smoky blue.

Blue gray window frames match the funky roof. The cedar is diametrically opposite on the color wheel as a orange tone. Usually the browner grays (sort of the light shade now on the stucco) do better with cedar to say modern, but since you have the blue gray, allow me to suggest that you just go as dark gray as you can - nearly charcoal on all the weatherboard. If you are in a high heat area (palms might or might not be - that might be the ocean on the horizon which might me an onshore breeze all the time) then you want a white. Not a blue-white but a warm white - bm maritime white is a good choice. With the cedar and the two blue-blue-gray elements, you need neutral without tone.

I don't know how hot it gets in Auckland in summer (I've only ever been to NZ in winter!) but if it gets hot, then go for a pale colour. Dark roofs should be kept for cold places!