Bronan, if you are over 13 and under 21, then the possibilities are really fun with black wood furniture in a room that could be set up with a ballet barre, or used as a dance practice studio as well as a bedroom! Since the floors are dark, you will need to keep the walls light, Usually in a bedroom you start with the colors in your bedding. If you want a new look, perhaps you could start with a pretty floral like this, paint the wall where you will put the head of your bed a deep coral pink to match the bedding and all the other walls a pale pretty coral too. room a soft, soft pink, and hang soft pink drapery panels http://www.target.com/p/threshold-multi-floral-comforter-set/-/A-14982101#prodSlot=medium_1_13 The coral will pop with your black furniture better / a good one that makes your skin pretty in the light - this one for a headboard wall to test - http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6878-animated-coral/ this one for the other 3 walls . . a white with the same coral undertone - http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6609-touching-white/ If possible, you might hang drapery rods on the mirror wall, so you can hang (with this bedding) white drapery at both the window and on each end of the mirror - it will make it feel a lot softer in the room if you treat it like a window. You can follow watch for on sale drapery until you can get a lot that is the same. Put the rod at the same height over the mirror as it is over the window. You might paint an inspirational quote at the top of the mirror in the dark coral (using a stencil) so that you visually fill the space between the top of the mirror and the top of the window. You could get a sample size of pale green paint the color of the green in the bedding to paint an extra piece of furniture that you need that isn't quite right. A little desk or vanity, or even a round end table or a bench for the foot of your bed. Hope this looks like an interesting option to you. Later, you can go for graphic black and white bedding and put hot coral pillows on it with the same paint job and curtains and get a whole new look with just new bedding.

Unless buying custom manufactured wood cabinets, you are buying a series of boxes. A 100k euro kitchen installation of an Italian kitchen is one example from my portfolio. Differences are found in the hardware, the door/drawer pulls, weight of doors and exterior finishes. It is about the design, first. In our region, you can knock off 1200-2000 just be sticking with a full depth fridge--but it is design that will make it possible to install full depth and get a counter depth effect. In the Garden Oaks Fine Accommodation residential display suite I needed to prove that a high-end design can be executed for less. Again, it is design that does the trick. The owner of the kitchen above loves the pendants over the breakfast counter. I did not have the heart to reveal the price--$19 each. That owner likes/needs bling so the 14k euro chandeliers (2) in the foyer are a feature. But we get more comments on our pendants--because they are integral to the overall design. Real estate agents have pegged this kitchen at anywhere from 45-75k. It cost under 30k. DYI projects offer the opportunity to take the time that you might not otherwise allow to a designer (hence our need to come equipped with knowledge, contacts and suppliers that augment our services). I recommend drawing from images (Houzz is great for that) to start, then researching suppliers, collecting specs, and developing a document that covers all aspects of the kitchen from lifestyle needs to style to comparisons of product reviews. Whittle it down to an instruction for purchase and installation. Consider challenges such as the dreadful corner cabinet turntable and splurge on solutions that make your design truly functional. You'll appreciate the expense that delivers practical functionality. There are remarkable solutions for the corner cabinet--but my fav is to determine whether that space can become storage (cabinet or drawers) in an adjoining room. When not practical, articulated pull-out stainless shelves are functional--and cool. Undermounted sinks are great for clean-line counters. Well placed recessed lighting (design again) eliminates the need for other fixtures--and allows you free rein to purchase for focal point impact or (my preference) to fit seamlesly into the overall look. Enjoy the journey--have fun!

I love the look of Tand G as the real thing or the 'James Hardie' NZ groove panels..........but also want my ensuite to look opulent. I am not having tiling anywhere in this room, which would be the easiest solution. Hence my dilemma..... I already have chosen the white 'tile look' acrylic walls with a feature 'marble' (narrow) panel in the shower alcove enclosure from the 'Atlantis' range. The alcove covers the complete width of the bathroom so is a feature in itself. I wanted to bring the 'marble 'feature' into the room if I could to enhance the opulence. The marbling is minimal veining on a white background so not too dramatic a feature. The obvious area is to use a matching 'marble' vanity top and/or a splash back (especially if have a china vanity top, which is the more likely due to cost). Where should the splashback end at the sides? I thought about taking the 'marble' splashback above the mirror to the ceiling thus creating a similar panel feature to that in the shower albeit wider but don't know how much wider it should be than the vanity. Also What then to do on the rest of the wall(s)? Just painted gib? If I used T& G or groove panelling I would want it to reach the ceiling. So do I put T&G on on all walls? The vanity wall has approx 1000mm 'strips' of full wall either side and the strips below the vanity and above mirror if only a splashback is incorporated. The opposite wall is almost taken up by window, radiator below, btw toilet and towel rail, leaving little wall to 'feature' and then the remaining wall is narrow (only 1100 left after door). These remaining walls could just be left as painted gib of course as really cannot afford to take the 'marble' panelling anywhere else in the room nor think where else it would feature best. 'Marble' Flooring is a possibility but it would need to be vinyl not porcelain tiles. Having written all this down I think I have talked myself out of T&G on any of the walls as the narrow room would become too busy and bitty but am still interested in what others think.

Hi there, this is very touch. But you have discovered the base principle already, soft materials or materials with a lot of surface area absorb the sound. Just shooting out some quick ideas here for you: A soft and thick rag or bath Matt on the floor. Curtains are a good sound absorber, but not to much in a moist bathroom. Potential mold issue ;-) Another idea could be to hang bathrobes on hooks or a fabric laundry hamper onto the back of your door. If you find its still not enough.... since your walls are already tiled. you could do something on your ceiling... like a timber slat ceiling or a painted plywood paneling with holes in it. Make sure you use polycaprithane paint for moisture protection on the timber.... hope this helps. If there are questions or you need more help, feel free to send me a message. Cheers Gunnar