You have "wear through" which is when the finish is pierced and the wood is exposed to the elements. The dark areas are where dirk/water/mud have stained the floor. It is possible to get this out... but probably not all the way. A floor that has wear through needs to be sanded right down, stained (if you wish) and then refinished. Patching can occur...but it is almost always a waste of time because the "look" can be very different from the original sitting right next to it. I don't recommend it for your situation. The second photo shows the deep scratching. Ideally, you would have had your floors looked after BEFORE wear-through occurs. There are some "regular" scratches to the Left in photo 2. You can see it is visible...but no discolouration....THAT is where you draw the line. The darker "wear through" to the Right in photo 2 = too late = full sand and refinish. If you catch it BEFORE wear-through, you can do a "buff and coat". This is a light sanding with a few coats of high end finish over top. The buff and coat is roughly half the price (in Canada at least) as a full sand/refinish. For this reason it is important to catch the floors before you get to this level of scratching.. That being said, you now get to pick some stains (test patch, test patch, test patch). The first photo shows two different woods...you could ask to see if the lighter would could be matched to the darker wood (lots of testing to achieve this). It won't be pefect...but then again you wouldn't have used reclaimed building materials if you were after "perfect". The match can lessen the colour variation to a more manageable (design wise) level. As for "good for dogs" - natural colour of wood = best colour for scratches. A lower gloss (like a satin) can help. You can ask for the "best" finish with scratch resistance that comes in a can. You will pay a premium for it...but it could/should save you thousands of dollars over the long run. A highend, scratch resistant finish means you can get away with the cheaper buff and coats (every 7-12 years...or so) and be able to retain the original (expensive) finish for the full 25 years. The other thing to note: dogs claws require trimming 2-4 PER MONTH when working with hardwoods. This is what the hardwood flooring refers to as "routine" trimming. Some of my clients thought "2-3 PER YEAR" was "routine". I laughed. You have heavy, high energy, powerful dogs. A single lab can cause some damage over time. Two labs can do a number on a floor. Three labs and you have a very short lived hardwood finish. You have 7. I would find the most expensive, scratch resistant finish available in Australia. I would have the maximum amount of finished put your floors (you will pay extra) it and I would budget for a "buff and coat" every 5-7 years.

Also take a look at Room and Board....they have several tables with different wood finishes or wood/steel/metal bases and a good selection of various tabletop materials. Also if you prefer a wood table, an area rug underneath the table could also help to break up all of the wood too.

Solid Wood benchtops look great with any kitchen style. White kitchens can be transformed by the natural glow of timber. Darker kitchens can make use of the many stain options there are on today's market. To Stain or not to Stain? No doubt we have all noticed a swing towards darker tones in kitchens over the recent years. Colours often taking a more contrasting approach such as, blacks, golds, whites, charcoals and petrol blues. Some may ask, where does solid wood fit into this? Walnut is naturally a dark chocolate to charcoal color; the flecked grain creates texture that looks great paired with exposed stone or other industrial materials. If the client is prepared for the investment (and many are), walnut creates a strikingly moody and luxurious kitchen design. Stained Timbers can save a considerable amount if walnut does happen to blow the budget, with USA Oak or Bamboo able to create an equally striking impression while maintaining the texture and grain of real wood. Popular standard stain colors include Light and Dark Oak as well as Chocolate and Earth. Home owners love the darker tones combined with the distinctive wavy grain of Oak that creates a true centre-point for the kitchen. Which design would you choose?

My guest bedroom walls are painted half-pearl lustre ( similar to rice paper) being a neutral shade with slight buttery undertone. The headboard is cherry wood and the duvet is MM Linen 'Hedley', which is woodland greens with rust and buttery coloured flowers. Please advise curtain colour to best match as I think any more green might be an overkill. I have tried to find a very subdued rust shade but have had no luck. Would linen look too rustic with such a handsome duvet?