I won't bother with lattice, barrels are partially obscured from the street by fencing and if I put it up I would have to work around the lattice in order to turn the valves for water. If I can just make better use of collected water I'll be happy. We are at the end of our growing season so I should be cleaning up the garden and putting it to bed for the winter, just can't seem to get motivated. We had our first frost last week. Usually, our average early frost date is 1 November. I got almost no produce from garden this year, but there is always next year. Chookchook2 I've seen some of those decorative metal panels and they are gorgeous, sure hope your budget will allow you to get some before too long. Most of our state has been on fire for a good part of the summer. The closest is across the river from us and they have been battling it for almost a month. Some friends have had to evacuate repeatedly. We've only been concerned once, a small grass fire on our side of the river on a day we had wind gusts up to 65mph. Fortunately, it was put out quickly. Australia and New Zealand have both sent firefighters to help with the blazes. I can't begin to tell you how appreciative we are. The closest fire was fought for almost a week by local volunteers only as there were no other resources available. They were all on other fires. The Army National Guard (reserve troops) were called out to help with support duties and for the first time ever the federal Department of Natural Resources (DNR) asked for civilian volunteers to help with non firefighting tasks, cutting fire breaks, moving supplies etc.

Well balancing out material and costs labour costs is one thing but 2 story is quite a bit cheaper to build ; far less foundation and roofing area. It also simplifies the plumbing and of course is far more energy effective as downstairs heating will also contribute to upstairs heating. PROs can develop on this. And as Curt points out, modular is a very fast and cost effective solution which can allow you to put your pennies into better quality. Be very careful to select a known and competent professional if you go this way though, i don't know about NZ but europe abounds with cowboys ; low costers are to be strictly avoided.

You could reverse the layout of the ensuite, and have the door to it through the walk in wardrobe (so you would only have one door coming off the bedroom). If I were you, I'd consider swapping the positions of the ensuite and wardrobe, so the current ensuite door becomes the wardrobe door. That way you could move the bed to the east (right), and you would have room for a seating area in the north west corner of the room (as your bedroom looks huge!). I'd also add a window on the small bit of north facing wall in that room; you already have corner windows in the living and another bedroom, so you could match those in style. Personally I don't particularly like the current layout of the main bathroom, although I can see the reasoning behind it (i.e. vanity at entrance, toilet hidden behind wall, window above bath). I think it might work better if you put the shower in the corner where the bath currently is (i.e. beside the toilet, opening to the west), and the bath on the same wall as the vanity. You'd have to move the window, of course. Alternatively, do you actually need three toilets? You could remove the toilet in the main bathroom, and you'd have room for a freestanding bath and/or a bigger shower. You could consider stealing a bit of space from the kitchen to create some storage at the entryway. I'm not sure where your garage will be, but it's really handy to have a designated place at the point of entry for all the stuff you tend to dump when you first come into the house (schoolbags, coats, mail etc). Overall, I think the layout is pretty good, but you could potentially lower the build cost by making it all a bit smaller. It's really worthwhile taking the time to figure out just how much space you actually need, and where you need it. For example, if it were my house, I'd take about half a metre off both the east bedrooms (so the house is shorter from east to west), plus I'd make it smaller north to south by slightly reducing the size of all three bedrooms, and making the kitchen a bit smaller (so the hall cupboard lines up with the back wall of the small living room). But your priorities may be completely different from mine!

I am not sure you need to add a deck or raised paving, when there is a usable surface there already. You will have gained a closer connection to the living area, but you will be more exposed, both to neighbours and to the wind, for a significant cost. Raising the fence may break height restrictions, as mentioned, and will also really box you in visually, especially with overhead louvres. Those may feel too low over a raised area if at eave height, and if higher could look awkward against the house. The fence already shades the area alongside it, so I wouldn't extend any further shading right out to the fenceline. I would consider a shade sail before louvres, both for cost and for a lighter, less boxed in appearance. Is there access to bring in a large tree? A good sized deciduous tree positioned near the fence at the edge of the lawn may be a good way to get some attractive summer shade, autumn colour, added privacy and may be cheaper than a set of movable louvres! Below the new doors from the living area, create wide steps These could wrap around to meet the existing steps. Wide steps can become a casual seating area as well as create a connection to the existing paving, and they are less of a barrier visually than a small set of steps. They could incorporate a planter, which will help to soften an otherwise quite hard outdoor space. This would also allow the lawn to remain connected with the paved area, making it feel larger.