I would suggest you take out the cabinet that is to the right of the stove and use it elsewhere in the house -- perhaps in the bathroom or dining room with a hutch above it. Then, I would suggest you have someone install a lazy susan cabinet in the corner between the sink counter and the stove, meaning you would move the stove down a bit and have a small cabinet/counter top to the right of the stove. I would suggest you have the cabinets refinished in white and then paint the walls a pastel you like. If you would prefer white walls, then add white-painted crown molding and paint the ceiling a light neutral blue, such as Sherwin Williams Niagara Falls Blue. Then, I would suggest you choose a favorite accent color and use this sparingly in accessories like towels, pot holders, small vases or floral arrangements, and a valence above the triple windows. For a genuine 1940s look, you might have white ceramic square tiles with a rectangular red border installed as a back splash behind and above the stove. If you are replacing counter tops, I would suggest a light color such as white with a beige or light grey vein or striation for some sort of pattern. You might be able to find the same color and design in floor tile OR opt for a wood floor as another poster suggested.

@Tribbletrouble44152k7 Trek, no not necessarily.. it fulfills it's purpose if you buy the one that is correct for what you want it for.. a bit of a catch22 and up to the store to point out that the thin stuff may dent.. in fact any of it can... there are many things that will void warranty of laminate floors.. here is a good website dealing with the cleaning and care .. http://www.baneclene.com/articles/laminate-care-consumer.html Remove shoes with spiked or damaged heels before walking on the floor. Spike or stiletto high-heel shoes may cause denting and related damage to wood floors due to the extremely high compressive force they generate. Such footwear can produce dynamic loads in excess of 1,000 pounds per square inch, even when worn by someone of slight or average build. Worth reading the whole thing.. Just worth reminding people that laminate flooring is mdf with a picture of wood printed on the surface with a couple of protective layers of clear coating over the top..it cannot be wet or steamed.. it will swell. Make sure you ask questions.. Wood vinyl planking is very durable and hardy, and bamboo is considered to be one of the strongest timbers.. if you choose to have floors redone with any of the above products please look them up on google and find out the qualities.. I vote for wood vinyl.. looks brilliant, can float or be glued (recommend glue for wet areas such as bathrooms, laundries) is hard wearing and cost is comparable with mid range wood laminate flooring and hardier. Hope that all helps. If you must have wood laminate then go for 10 - 12 mm.. anything less will flex. Must have underlay and be laid on a level floor.. There are self levelling compounds you can use to make this easier... hope all this helps.

I am not sure you need to add a deck or raised paving, when there is a usable surface there already. You will have gained a closer connection to the living area, but you will be more exposed, both to neighbours and to the wind, for a significant cost. Raising the fence may break height restrictions, as mentioned, and will also really box you in visually, especially with overhead louvres. Those may feel too low over a raised area if at eave height, and if higher could look awkward against the house. The fence already shades the area alongside it, so I wouldn't extend any further shading right out to the fenceline. I would consider a shade sail before louvres, both for cost and for a lighter, less boxed in appearance. Is there access to bring in a large tree? A good sized deciduous tree positioned near the fence at the edge of the lawn may be a good way to get some attractive summer shade, autumn colour, added privacy and may be cheaper than a set of movable louvres! Below the new doors from the living area, create wide steps These could wrap around to meet the existing steps. Wide steps can become a casual seating area as well as create a connection to the existing paving, and they are less of a barrier visually than a small set of steps. They could incorporate a planter, which will help to soften an otherwise quite hard outdoor space. This would also allow the lawn to remain connected with the paved area, making it feel larger.

I didn't like any of the stock standard vanities I saw being sold. By chance I happened to see a second hand vanity being sold on FB so I brought it ( see photo). I liked its shape and solid profile but didn't like its colour. I took it to a auto car spray painter and had them spray paint it in Benjamin Moore Kendall Charcoal (a greige grey). They did an awesome paint job with a mirror like finish. I brought a piece of primestone (marble look) for the top, two small towel rails to be fixed in the underside of the vanity that is sticking out so I can hang hand towels on either side. I brought a new tap for it (but kept the vessel basin). I ordered in some new legs for it online because I didn't like the legs on it (see below). Its currently at a joiners getting put together. I've actually enjoyed the process of pulling it all together. Sure by the time it has been put together I probably would have spent the same amount that it would have cost me to do a custom vanity however I think there is something to be said for re-using something a second time round rather than buying into consumerism that abounds us. All up I've spent $1,074 NZD for the vanity, the spray paint job, new legs from www.prettypegs.com, the new towel rails from Reece Plumbing & buying a new Elementi tap. That doesn't include the joiners costs - yet. I needed storage in my vanity. This one fit the bill for me. Good luck with what you choose to do! I am doing a bathroom remodel as well and enjoying it.