Try this. Hang the television to the right of the wood stove on the wall opposite the french doors. Use the wall with the high windows for a looong sofa and add two chairs across / angled slightly - low back so you can look over one to television. use console / sofa table on entry /bed door wall just past where entry door opens so you have a lay down surface. Forget glass, it isn't for this era and won't make it feel bigger. Paint ALL french doors inside and out and small windows and entry door same color and trim same color too. Try a charcoal rather than a black - something in the blue-green-gray shades like new providence navy. do all the walls in kitchen and living in a warm white - this tone has the wood as an undertone - http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/woodash then, for the cabinets . . do a bungalow thing and go deeper on the cabinets to a classic drabware tone - with the wood walls and floors / try bm bracken biscuit http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/brackenbiscuit these will all go together like gangbusters, keep it light and bright but interesting and work with a new blue green gray back door in a tone like bm beach glass http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/beachglass templeton gray as a counterpoint on some craigslist piece of furniture . . add warm undertone tan and oatmeal nubby tweed upholstery to start . . the teal navy gray will work with the black iron stove and accents without going black. start keeping the left door to the kitchen closed and get a door stop to hold the other one open permanently . . this will work because you need a little more wall to make the tv work well - in the kitchen, pull your table away from the wall just a tad - consider a padded bench on the wall to provide a kind of sitting space in there and put the chairs across - if you shift your television to the wall (high enough the heat is not an issue , you can still have big speakers work well - and remote the media equipment - run the wire and patch the holes. Hang it mid-height - eye level when you sit plus 15 degrees . . check out the amazing sconces you can put on the entry wall - shades of light petersik pendant with home-made trim wood brace to pump it out from the wall since the power is high? over the console? round wood table in middle - even a hd butcherblock round on a painted drum base in trim tone? With those tones - teal gray, biscuit, creamy off-white, muted blue-greens - paint your white chairs and a hand me down bench wythe blue and find a graphic sunbrella print with a little blue green, chocolate and orange for cushions and pad skirts with velcro at the table . . make a galvinized pipe leg / plank 1 x 12 / clear finish console for behind the door . . now you are cooking with gas . .

Kind of funny really how many people would feel exposed and would not want to use the bathroom. The more I think about it, it's a bit like a public restroom with stalls (as stall walls rarely go to the ceiling or floor and have the added issues of gaps between the wall panels and doors -- which thankfully we won't have!). Regarding the humidity control issue, I should have clarified this is only for a toilet and small hand basin (not a full bathroom with shower). The main room on the other side of the proposed toilet is our dog whelping room where we will have young litters of puppies (when we have them). Further down the hall, removed from this room, is our training room where there are likely to be other visitors but the proposed bathroom would be quite removed from that area. It would be wonderful to find more windows like the ones that are up near the ceiling! That would certainly solve the issue. I'll have to scour the demolition/restoration places.

Thanks Susan. I would love to get feedback here from the Houzz community on butterfly roof construction. I know that flashing the valley will be critical to say the least. Whoever does the roof has to have 1. Skill 3. Architectural specs to follow 2. Guaranteed work. How do they hold up in a climate such as yours which is sub-tropical? It's a big project so you will need to be confident in the outcome. [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/can-you-please-tell-me-how-the-water-drains-from-the-valley-of-this-butterfly-roof-dsvw-vd~423763?n=2[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/can-you-please-tell-me-how-the-water-drains-from-the-valley-of-this-butterfly-roof-dsvw-vd~423763?n=2) And here is a box gutter diagram to check out. I would research the heck out of construction techniques so as to be as informed as possible so that you are able to have a better dialog with the roofer when the time comes http://www.builderbill-diy-help.com/box-gutter.html

You are correct the place does and always will look a bit sparse when you only have blinds. The question with curtains is sometimes dependant on what climate you live in and I am not sure where you are so I am going to say. If you need curtains for heat go for a quality curtain to the floor with a fabric that is not stiff (as I discovered I now own after buying curtains off line for my spare rooms). The expensive curtains I brought for my living room have a softer texture and hang so much nicer. As I need Curtains / Roman blinds for heat I have backing fabric etc on the expensive made to measure ones, where as the cheaper ones are just thermals. If you only want to add a curtain for looks and do not require it for heat I would recommend going with a lovely sheer / half see through fabric that drapes really well, this will add a point of interest and you can colour match or add a loved colour to a bare - white on white - cream on cream - colour scheme.