What a fantastic architecture. When you do the brick, if you stain it with masonry /concrete stain you won't have the same issues of maintenance as with paint. They will spray it evenly - through you will have to select a deeper color - either taupe (brown-gray) or a straight charcoal. Love your windows and the classic angled railing. I think a dark gray on the siding will make the orange brick jump even more. What bothers me is the white (railing, fascia, eaves) juxtaposed with the earth toned stuff. So I would recommend camel tones - for the siding - something like http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6108-latte/ and the hopsack next darker tone for the garage door. Use the lighter tan for trim that is now white - http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6107-nomadic-desert/ Use the darkest tone if you are painting concrete steps. If you think you will stain your brick charcoal, then the white eaves and trim are probably right, and you may not want to paint it tan now and then go back. If your brick were charcoal, then I would block out the rest in grays and blue grays - leave the white eaves, but take the railing and posts charcoal too. A blue gray door - like sw smoky blue.

If you use masonry paint, we could head in a warm greige direction for all of it - not so yellow . .. something that can give you a bit more contrast against the white windows and trim - even 40 does a lot for us . . . what about a blue green gray? You will get a coastal / mod vibe and it will relate to the farmhouse look .. .above bm silver mink http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/silvermink and below . . . gilbraltar cliffs . . http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/gibraltarcliffs Shingle look siding on the side dormers would be neat to get that cottage mod. . . you can stick with yellow but I don't think it complements the roof tone. With the blue-green grays, the white windows and trim will really pop beautifully. . . You can also go more neutral with a warm gray - greige . . . here's the siding tone http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/capemaycobblestone paired with this for brick - http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/graystone potential future red windows . . .aluminum pits over time, so if you have just one side you want to try, you don't have to powder coat, you can take a small brush and just do them by hand with latex paint if they are 10 yrs old or more. . . one advantage to gray . . future see [houzz=]

This is a similar home. Does the architect's response help you? "Yes the soffit is painted ( Resene Bokara ) to make it similar to the cladding. We did it this way in order to emphasis the sculptural form of the house - if it was white it would have broken up the form somewhat. I think it depends on what you want to achieve, if the line of the joinery is at ceiling level then it is good to have the ceiling and the soffit the same colour in terms of how you experience the interior space. If the exterior look is more important then the dark soffit would probably work better."

As you rethink adding a fixed window, consider either a fixed window that is the long horizontal kind over the shower/tub surround and/or an octagon one with stained glass for the dressing room. https://www.google.com/search?q=images+for++octagon+windows&biw=1366&bih=673&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCIQsARqFQoTCOaJ69fb28gCFcYVPgodogsLDw You could add a couple of pairs of shutters to create a pair of faux windows that look as if the shutters are closed. If you don't want a window that opens on that wall, you might consider having a fixed window and shutters that are louvered to let in some light while protecting your privacy. You might also consider a faux gable with a faux window, perhaps functional as part of the venting system for the bath.